Hi, actually, having some root exposure (as long as they're woody and spread out relatively evenly around the trunk) is considered attractive in bonsai. If yours has most concentrated (bunched) on one side, or one out of proportion to the others that's a different story, but still I'd leave things open a bit, rather than burying them. Your leaves are large because they're trying to grab the most available light, and what you need is either a good south window, or a small full spectrum light (a fluorescent's ideal), but be careful of things just called 'Gro(w) Lites" as not all are good for much. And the more hours (up to 16 a day) you can give it strong light, the better. Also put a wide high-sided (1") tray of water and pebbles under the pot for humidity, but never let the water reach the pot bottom. Your soil is wet near the bottom if nothing else, and what you need is something peat-less, which most potting soils are not, though a coarser particle type from a garden center would help if you mixed it ~60/40 (40% soil, 60 grit) with grit - chicken grit from a "Feed' store, or small size aquarium gravel, and/or a mix of thirds also using perlite. I would not defoliate this year, though if your tree is healthy next June, you could do a partial job (only maples can withstand 100%) and more the next year. The most expert advice will be at www.bonsaihunk.us/cultural.html.

When repotting my variegated weeping fig, I discovered that it was actually several plants all growing together in the same pot. So if anybody would like to trade for one or more of these, let me know. I also have an unidentified gardenia that I divided in the same way, as well as the following left over from a previous post: Annona cherimoya Cryptostegia grandiflora Hoya with spotted leaves Impatiens grandis Rosa Night-blooming cereus Passiflora antioquiensis Passiflora caerulea Passiflora manicata Redbud Solandra maxima Theobroma cacao If interested, you can find my trade list at the following link and e-mail me from my member page. Here is a link that might be useful: Audrey's Trade List

What kind of soil is it in? Virtually all containerized houseplants need regular nutritional supplementation; so YES, you should have a good fertilizer on hand and have a strategy in place that includes regular fertilizing that is adjusted in relation to the changes in growth habit as the plant makes it's way through the growth cycle. No one can tell you how to fertilize w/o knowing something about your soil and your watering habits, because those factors determine how much you use and how often you use it. If I guessed you were just getting interested in learning how to best provide for your plants' cultural needs, would I be right? In most cases, the manner in which a person addresses the issues for which you seek guidance will depend on your level of experience. I use, as do many others, and highly recommend Dyna-Gro's Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 fertilizer. There are a number of reasons for this, and I can direct you to a thread that lays out those reasons if you have interest. Your plant probably shouldn't be fertilized until you see signs of new growth. My guess is, the soil has been kept overly wet, which accounts for a very high % of the problems for which folks eventually arrive here in search of resolution. Once all the leaves fall, the amount of water your plant uses will be minuscule, so make sure you do not over-water. If you don't know how to use a wooden dowel/skewer as a tell, and want to, just ask. Many folks here use or have used that method with good results. It doesn't lie and will tell you when your plant does/doesn't need water. Al

If the plant is sparse, it's probably not healthy. It's not the plant's nature to be robust and display sparse foliage at the same time. Maximize branch ramification by pruning all branches with 4 or more leaves back to 2 leaves. Get the plant into full sun. Make sure your soil drains freely so you can water profusely every time you water and feed weekly at 1/2 strength through Sep. I would suggest any fertilizer with a 3:1:2 ratio, like 24-8-16, 12-4-8, or 9-3-6. I can tell you now though, that unless you keep branch length under control and the canopy open so light can penetrate, you'll have lots of trouble maintaining much in the way of interior growth. Al