Al - Thanks for responding! I will try sneaking up on it at night with a flashlight, but I really don't think it is something (a bug?) little enough to live in the soil of the window box - whatever it is has eaten 3 entire new impatiens plants down to the ground in one night in the past - that's a lot for bugs! Also, yesterday I replaced all of the soil. There was nothing visible in it. I have never planted bulbs there before, just plants. Yesterday I planted some daffodil, grape hyacinth, and spanish bluebell bulbs. I am waiting to see what happens. We are having really warm (in the 70s for the past week) weather, so the bulbs may come up this month or next month. This morning one of the hyacinth bulbs was laying on the surface of the soil - seemingly uninjured, so I hope that means it didn't smell delicious, and I replanted it. Jackie

Okay, I've got a few minutes. Let's take a look at some of the questions and objections others have raised. First, let me say this: IMPORTANT SIDE COMMENTS: My purpose in starting this thread was to get help from others in evaluating whether this idea might be viable or not. (It wasn't to try to convince you that doing what I've suggested is the way to go.) Hearing your objections is helpful in figuring out if I've overlooked something important or if there is something that makes this idea a no-go or not worth it from an effort-reward standpoint. In responding to your objections, I'm not trying to be argumentative; rather, my interest is in evaluating whether they are a serious issue or not really a problem (or a problem that can be worked around fairly easily). On this subject, there was a bit of mild sarcasm in my first post on the 16th. I'm sorry. Please excuse me for that. AND NOW THE ACTUAL TECHNICAL CONTENT... Objection #1: Heat build-up is going to be a big problem. Answer: I'm not really sure why that would be, although maybe I'm missing something. If I have what's basically a cage made from insect screen/netting, the sides (and potentially the top) should all have a decent rate of air exchange through them due to air diffusion, if nothing else. This isn't a greenhouse with solid sides and roofing. I would expect it to be a few degrees above the outside ambient temperature on sunny days, but that's about it. Am I estimating temperature build-up incorrectly? Related Objections: Ventilation! Humidity! Regarding ventilation, we don't get a lot of wind around here in the summer and plants still manage to do okay. As mentioned above, air will diffuse through the screen, resulting in a situation that I would guess is not that much different from what it would be with no screen at all. Nevertheless, I could periodically run a fan if needed to circulate the air. Regarding humidity, air diffusion through the screen ought to keep it in line with the area outside the structure. Objection #2: It won't stop pests, or at least not plum curculio - no screen mesh anywhere is fine enough to stop plum curculio. Answer: Are you sure? The screen ought to stop moths (e.g. the Oriental Fruit Moth). As for plum curculio, check out http://www.greenhousemegastore.com/Anti-Insect-Screen/productinfo/IS-AI/ - they say this stuff will stop western flower thrips. Compare the size of western flower thrips (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_flower_thrips) to that of plum curculio (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plum_curculio). Although I'd like to finish this post, I really need to go now - hopefully can get back with you all in the next couple of days. Thanks!

I see this is an old thread, but in answer to the original question, yes the wire will girdle the roots and kill the trees; I have first hand experience in Central CA and about 16" annual rainfall. Galvanized wire does not readily rot out...not for years and after 15 years at my place it's still there. Plain steel wire in the necessary thin gauge is hard to find as poultry mesh. Note there may be some species that can create new tissue around the wire but I have never seen a list and don't have the time to experiment. I have seen trees grow around barbed wire fences but I have never cut one in-section to see if the tree's phloem actually healed over the wire or if it just looks that way and since the wire was straight it did not ring-bark the tree. For sure we lost our apricots and walnuts. I have one large sycamore (no basket) next to three stunted sycamores (with baskets). When we realized this was happening to the fruit trees, we carefully dug around 1/2 the tree to the wire basket and carefully cut the wire around the roots. Then we waited for a season for healing the disturbed 1/2 and then cut the other side. All in all it seems a day late and a dollar short because the orchard growth stalled. We now plant new trees in oversized holes lined with thin, 1" concrete pavers, extending a couple inches above the top of the soil while being careful to make sure no holes larger than 1/2-3/4" exist between the pavers. It seems to be working extremely well. We have not had any issues with gophers jumping over the top but if we do we will simply place something on top of the soil around the tree. Our theory is this: Once a paver is buried in the ground, it's very difficult or impossible to move without a large enough hole created by the gopher to allow it to shift. We surmise gophers can't think the mechanics through and are not generally that lucky to stumble upon the solution. I suppose if the gopher chose to make it's primary burrow right next to the pavers, one could fall out of place. The tree root, however, can get through the holes between the pavers and slowly push the paver out of the way as it grows without being ring-barked/girdled. I think of roots growing under and buckling a sidewalk to visualize the power of a root. To date, we have had great luck and no girdled trees. So, what about cost? Well, the argument that a hundred dollar hole might make a thousand dollar tree and a 10 dollar hole might kill it is a good one. I happen to have a ready-supply of paver off-cuts and rejects to keep my cost down. We have speculated about what to do to keep the costs down and have thought of many alternate ways while keeping the original concept intact: a lined hole where roots can grow through the liner but gophers cannot get at the young tree to do their damage When the day comes for me to make a hole and line it with something different than pavers to save money, I plan to try this one first as a cost-saver: Dig an oversize hole with sloped walls. Mix up some inexpensive fence-post mix, or stucco, or a home made mix (add some extra sand to make it go farther –it can be a weak mix). Make it a stiff-mix and line the hole with the mud, making an in-ground bowl, more or less. Then cut or score deep lines in the firm mud in a large grid (6"?) so as to allow the bowl to break to bits once dry. Now poke holes through the mix where the lines cross; it's these holes that will serve as drainage and for the roots to grow out of so be sure they go all the way through. We thought of pounding in wood stakes while the bowl set up for awhile and removing prior to back-filling the hole. We speculate, too, that if it were a really weak mix ( 1 part cement to 10 or 12 parts sand) that poking a bunch of holes in the mud is all that would be needed (no scoring lines) and the tree would win the day at time of breaking. None of what is done in making the lined hole needs to be pretty, it just needs to confound the gophers and allow the tree to bust-its-way out. It's labor intensive, like the pavers, but no too costly on materials. The hole can be filled with soil when wet, and the tree thus planted, too, so it should be fairly fast. Again, you can cap the buried bowl with wire if your gophers like to travel over-land. One component I would like to add would be sprinkling something on the fresh mortar to counter the change in PH while the bowl cures underground; perhaps acidic Redwood mulch? What other ideas are out there? How about up-cycling flattened tin cans from the recycling bin and lining the hole and letting them compost? If anyone has an idea on how to make a lined hole where roots can grow through the liner but gophers cannot get at the young tree to do their damage, I'd love to hear it!

I realized the solution is two composters. We need one at the first floor level for kitchen waste. That would be a relatively small, inexpensive one like yimby. It is very reasonable on Amazon. Then I'd get a larger tumbler for yard waste. I'm reading reviews. I think it was 'life solutions' that got very good reviews and a decent price. Safety is a factor. Being less sure-footed now, Having to walk out to garden to the composter in winter is an invitation to slip and fall. ( it is no longer an option to just drop the kitchen garbage over the wall onto the compost heap. That was so easy!)