We cleared a large area in the backyard with new borders and put in a lot of trees. I had never had a tree list before but after all that planting I decided to make a list of what trees and shrubs are in the garden. Here are the trees with I'm sure a few missing. Acer ginnala Acer griseum Acer triflorum Aesculus mutabilis 'Induta' Aesculus parviflora Sassafras Amelanchier alleghany clump Betula papyrifera Betula pendula 'Trost's Dwarf' Cercidiphyllum japonicum Chionanthus virginicus Clethra barbinervus Cornus alternifolia 'Golden Shadows' Cornus kousa Corylus 'Rosita' Cotinus coggyria 'Golden Spirit' Crabapple 'Prairie Fire' Cretaegus phaenopyrum Evodia daniellii Fagus sylvatica Fagus sylvatica 'Riversii' Gleditsia triacanthos Japanese maple 'Beni Maiko' Japanese maple 'Beni Schichihenge' Japanese maple 'Bloodgood' Japanese maple 'Crimson Queen' Japanese maple 'Full Moon' Japanese maple 'Garnet' Japanese maple 'Orangeola' Japanese maple 'Peaches and Cream' Japanese maple 'Viridis' Japanese maple 'Waterfall' Juniperus virginiana Larix kaempferi Magnolia 'Jane' Magnolia 'Leonard Messel' Oxydendrum Picea pungens-Colorado Blue Sorbus aucuparia 'Cardinal Royal' Stewartia pseudocamellia Styrax japonica Syringa reticulata In the woods surrounding 3 sides of the yard are tons of: Maples Oaks-white and red White Pine I'm looking forward to collecting more evergreens in the coming years. Something really lacking in general in my garden.

cannot speak to heat tolerant conifers sad to say but i thought i would speak up for the surprising adaptability of Mexican conifers (Mexican oaks as well) to seemingly very different climates and localities. i have had gratifying success growing a number of species (likely mostly from areas with a summer rainfall maximum) here in the summer cool and dry (winter very wet) pacific north west (oregon coast)---including pinus montizumae, p. patula, p. pseudostrobus, p. estevezii,, cupressus montana, c. guadalupensis, and podocarpus matudae---.wonderful trees that once established seem to do well with little or no additional care.

Beutiful photos from Conifers. Also, you are right-Thuja occidentalis is grown throughout the Atlanta area. wrt comments from Pineresin.Thank you for the corrections in nomenclature. Would like to add a few comments: 1. Taiwania flousiana vs. cryptomeriodes-I have read that flousiana grows a leader very easily and has a less blue green color, and this is the same behavior I have seen in the specimens I have grown. Can't comment on whether flousiana is actually a distinct species. 2. darjeelingsensis vs. cashmeriana vs. pseudohimlaicia-I have acquired several Cuppressus "darjeelingsensis" and a couple of "psuedohimalaica" from a US supplier (these are the names used by the supplier). The supplier calls the seed-grown trees darjeelingsensis and trees grown from cuttings, pseudohimalaica, and the pseudohimalaica have the weeping bluish branchlets that I have seen on trees called cashmeriana in botanic gardens in the US. The two pseudohimalaica I have, have only survived one mild winter here, so I don't know if they are viable in Atlanta, but they will be a wonderful addition to the local landscape if they are hardy here. (The Atlanta Botanic Garden grows their "cashmeriana" indoors in pots). The ABG "cashmeriana" and the "cashmeriana" grown at the Huntington Botanical Garden in Pasadena have the same appearance as the pseudohimalaica). 3. I have seen that Cunninghamia "unicaniculata" listed as lanceolota in almost all references as you indicate. Some suppliers in the US distinguish between them, perhaps because of the appearance, which is quite distinct, and climate preferences. In terms of climate preferences, the unicaniculata sold commercially in the US have behaved more like konishi than lanceolata for me. I understand that there is also controversy as to whether konishi shoud be a separate species (from lanceolata). 4. Chamaecyparis thyoides var. Henryae-quite right.

Thank you Greg and Mallee. Greg, I don't really object to a bit of pyrethrum, but was looking for a poison-free way to do be sure of saving insect-free seed. Hot water might work, but of course some wattle seeds don't need to be boiled. They'll germinate in hot water from the tap. Mallee, I'm interested to hear that it can succeed. I think the site where these were collected would be subject to frost, which is why I thought it might work. I guess the only way to find out for sure would be to do it (on only some of the seeds collected) for just long enough to get rid of insects, then try germinating them before using the process on the rest and putting them away (unfrozen) for storage. It would be a rather laborious way to do things as a general seed-storage policy, though. I guess that's why we really use poisons, sometimes a bit more than we should. Trish