Not seeing how major pruning by a contractor every so many years into perpetuity is an economical choice. And if you have turned them into pollards or otherwise severely pruned specimens then the charm of the natural shapes has already been lost - maybe plant some more suitable kinds of trees among them, cut the olive trees out after the new set is of some size. Otherwise they should probably be trimmed frequently, maintained as formal specimens instead of getting whacked back hard at longer intervals. Every time they are forced to regrow most of the top that was present at the time they are drawing on nutrient reserves in the trunks and may be gradually becoming diminished by the repeated assaults. There is also the possibility of trunk decay developing due to the large pruning cuts being made. For planting near swimming pools you want plants with large parts that do not get sucked past filters. As you have described olive trees are probably about as bad a choice as one could come up with.

Butterfly4u... I feel like I have known you for a very long time...Boy does time fly! Thank you for your kind comments and stopping by...You do know that your suggestions and comments always have meant a lot to me.. Much apprciated.. I was reading some of your older posts, and I even think you wrote one on olives too, or gardenias also.. I will be commenting soon..Your plants are just beautiful too! Yes, it is the same one as last year...It grew big didn't it?!..I love this tree..I also have 3 others doing just as nice..I bought them in 2 inch pots, and now they are so much bigger since the spring..I will post those pics soon..I hope you see them.. Because of all the gardenia information you have dispensed here, mine are also doing fanatastic! I never got that red olive....They are so expensive and I was told they do not bloom as much.. I never put that any in the pop up..This particular one has been going in my garage at night when temps drop to the 30's..Then it has stayed outdoors everyday since..It seems to thrive in the cold....I also place it against the pop up so that it faces the sun and it warms that area up very nicely..Cold at night, warm by day and fresh rain...Loves it..;-) So nice to spend this time with you..:-) Moonwolf....I have seen your new aquired plants..Just beautiful..They should do very well with your love and caring attitude to back them up...Nice.. Kemistry....Thank you so much....I am suprised you couldn't keep them happy inside for the winter...They are not hard to grow indoors for the winter.. If you should decide to get one again, I , as well as everyone else would be happy to help you.. MIke

Now you can buy from online, like Amazon. Also we created some faux black olive trees, not sure if we made it right, wanting to get some suggestions on the styles. here is the link: https://www.sinleenplants.com/black-olive-tree/

Your plant is moving (growing) to the left, so that small branch (trunk wannabe) adds visual weight/balance to the tree. You can remove it entirely or just one side of the bifurcation. A bifurcation is when a branch splits into 2 branches, like a slingshot. If you do remove it entirely, you should prune the main part of the tree back so the trunk is moving back toward an imaginary vertical line from where the main trunk exits the soil. I can't tell from the images provided, but it looks like you have competing (co-dominant) leaders on the main part of the tree. A two-headed tree confuses the eye because one typically views a tree by looking at the lower trunk and following the trunkline upward to the apex (tip top). You should decide asap, whether or not you want a single-trunk specimen or a bushy/shrubby tree with multiple trunks. In either case, pruning is the appropriate strategy to achieve either outcome. You could also remove one of the competing stems on the left side of the tree, and the side with the zigzag would bake a good candidate. That would allow you to create a composition where the tall side of the tree (left side) sort of leans protectively over the smaller branch/trunk wannabe moving to the right. In bonsai, this is called a Mother/Daughter style tree. Note: When you allow your branches to get as long as they are, it forces you to cut the tree back hard in order to ensure branches and foliage close to the trunk. If you snip a few inches off the the tree, you'll only get back-budding (which creates new branches and leaves) at a few nodes immediately proximal (toward the trunk) to the pruning cut. Branches that bifurcate (divide) well away from the trunk jar the eye and potentially become a distraction. You probably don't want to hear it, but your tree needs to be cut back hard to bring it back in bounds. This will force prolific back-budding. Keep the branches you believe contribute to the composition's eye appeal and rub off branches you don't want (with your thumb) as soon as they occur. Once you bring it back in bounds, start pinching the branches to stop them from getting too long. This will force lots of new branches and leaves. Ask, if your interested in cutting the tree back hard, or if you need pruning guidance. For that, I will need pictures from all sides (N,S,E,W or front, back, left, right). You should be fertilizing regularly .... like every 1-2 weeks in summer. Let me know if you need help with a nutritional supplementation program that is extremely easy and effective. PS ~ No amount of pruning, roots OR shoots, is going to jeopardize your plant's viability, especially at this time of your. They have a huge amount of vigor (a genetic trait). I can also offer you some visual reassurance if you're undecided because you are uneasy about how it will affect the tree. Al