trees are dug up.. when leafless.. when they are dormant ... but i do not know the proper timing for SC .. its either late fall.. early winter.. or late winter.. lol.. that narrows it down.. also.. will you be there to keep them PROPERLY WATERED???? if not.. the timing is IMPERATIVE ... for best success ... with this tree .. you could probably have 3 foot bare root whips mailed to the location rather cheap.. and at the proper planting time ... rather than driving hundreds of miles.. digging them.. transporting them.. torturing them.. etc ... what a nightmare for something that can mysteriously appear at your front door ... see link as an e.g. good luck ken ps: do NOT buy poplars .. tulip poplar is not a poplar .. its actually: Liriodendron tulipifera though fast growing.. poplars ... are fast to disease ... and fast to dropping huge limbs.. and fast to die ... and.. fast in tree terms.. is a decade or two ... but why plant future cost or problems .... Here is a link that might be useful: not that i am rec'ing this seller .. just size to price example ...

Tulip poplar is a great tree, a great very tall growing tree with upright branches of a harder wood than bradford pears so it stands up to ice storms without the breakage that bradford (used as example of another upright branching tree) suffers. Mine is a side yard tree and from the second story windows you can view the tulip cups that are upright and not easy to view from below the tree. Site it as a background or side yard tree to frame the house and preferably on the west side of the house to benefit from its summer shade. Know that tulip poplar sheds its first flush of leaves around July heat/drought and when it is old enough to blossom, the bud casing petals and later the developed seeds are shed. Point is, site it knowing if there is a roof gutter nearby you will need twice a year cleanout of the gutters. Its broad leaves give wonderful shade and it does not suffer from being limbed up at any time of the year. A few years after it begins to blossom the seeds are very viable and you will find new poplars EVERYWHERE. Pull them up soon as you find them. After a year of growth they're tough to pull. River birch is another nice tree and you can get it in larger sizes for professional transplanting. Not a good framing tree because of its medium height it looks great in a front yard bed and is also an upright but multi-trunk tree that tends to lean. As I recall, it's an early leaf shedder in fall which leaves a nice form and bark for winter interest. I don't know if the river birch is as susceptible to leaf miners as the white birch is.

You will see, if you read this entire thread, that there is no such thing as the PERFECT TREE (or plant either, for that matter). All have good points and bad. You need to do adequate research and then decide what you want and what you can live with. Of your list, I can speak to three from personal experience. A Natchez Crape Myrtle would be a nearly ideal size for your home and the amount of space that you have to give it. They, of course, bloom (white) in the summer, have nice fall color, and if pruned and trained properly are at their glorious best in their sculptural leaf-bare selves in the winter. Their bark looks like a giraffe's skin before it peels, and the trunks, as they get larger take on the look of human muscle. Your own organic sculpture. They grow fast (a five gallon plant can easily reach 15 or more feet in three years) and are very drought tolerant once established. On the down side, they require consistent pruning, especially in the first few years, but this is not extremely time consuming. Simply choose three or four (or whatever) trunks that you like and keep limbing them up until the lowest limbs are above your head level. Remove other trunks and suckers that inevitably come up around the base of the tree. If the higher limbs fail to branch at a good height, cut them off ONCE and then remove all but two or three branches that form at the cuts the following year. Do not EVER just amputate limbs, or worse, trunks, because someone tells you the tree will bloom better unless you just like the look of a tree that looks like an upside down witch's broom. Give it some fertilizer to make it bloom, and congratulate yourself all winter on the beautiful structure of your un-maimed tree. (Sorry. I just can't help myself. Crape murder is a personal pet peeve of mine.) Anyway, the other downside of Crape myrtles is the blooms can damage the paint on cars parked below them. On very hot days, the blooms just seem to become one with the paint. (Position the tree away from the driveway. End of problem.) And, they create a fair amount of bloom litter over concrete. Careful positioning can solve this, or just be willing to sweep. River Birches are beautiful, multi-season trees. Their peeling bark is a big plus, and the grace of the trees swaying in the breeze is one big reason they are so popular. They are fast growing, and in this case, they tend to be brittle because of it. Expect alot of limb drop in high winds or ice storms. Although most people think of them as small trees, at least some of them can surprise you and get to be quite large. Be sure you know what you are buying. Also, in very moist soil, they can become invasive. I have planted several Red Maples over the years and have a very hard time getting them to establish. This may be because of my incredibly tight clay. I don't know. Check around with folks in your area before plunking down your hard earned money. Most maples are notorious for having very...

The faster trees grow, the shorter their lifespan and weaker they are (at least regarding broadleaf trees....- conifers are a law unto themselves)...but, I do have to wonder why you wanted 3 of them. The hybrid poplars (and, as I garden in a poplar plantation, I know of what I speak) have very little charm to be honest - the timber is weak and without much intrinsic interest, the canopy is negligible (so useless as a shade tree), they have no autumn colouring, take ages to leaf up and are already bare. They sucker. Eucalypts....I have rarely seen a well-grown gum without severe leaning issues.....so unless you have added in the extra space a 45degree angle will add (Like a gigantic apple cordon....without the benefits), take it out.... Paulownias....are you growing for biomass? I can see few advantages to growing this monster....but will agree that whilst it has few pluses, it certainly does not have the screaming negatives of the former pair of yahoos. I am biassed against this tree since my dimwit neighbour has planted one in her garden....which is 5metres wide, right next door to my 5m wide home garden...it is only 3 years old and is taking half of her alloted space....the chainsaw will be out the second it overgrows my wall). I don't really hang out here ever so feel free to be blunt and truthful....why, with a hundred better, nicer, more useful and appropriate trees to select, would you go for a couple of thugs. Even the rampant poplar will hang around for 80 years...so these charmless blights are going to be there, huge and visible for a lifetime. Unless the speed of their growing is your only criteria (in which case, top choices), I cannot imagine why you would impose such dullards on your landscape.