Hi Lindsay. I live in Michigan USDA Zone 6. You won't be able to use above ground planters as most perennials will suffer badly from the freeze if not completely die. That said, plants will grow around broken glass, etc. as long as the soil itself is decent. I suggest you pay a couple guys from a high school football team come and dig out a large trench along the fence to bury narrow horse trough planters. They don't have to be brand new [the planters not the guys] https://www.pinterest.com/pin/154952043399694610/ Fill the planters or trench with garden soil--not top soil. I just re-landscaped an older home in Pontiac MI and aimed for low maintenance perennials like hostas, daylilies and coral bells mass planted in groups of 3. Look for reblooming daylilies which will add massive color with little work. https://www.oakesdaylilies.com/. Daylilies love Epsom salts. You might want to add height with pillar form shrubs with color like Orange Rocket Barberry or that flowers/berries. Maybe hollies? Talk to your local nursery about what they have unless you want to buy online. Roses require a great deal of time and attention and chemicals especially if the Japanese beetles find them. I had to pull out a 12 bush beds of roses due to beetles. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japanese_beetle Clematis would be very beautiful, but can make maintenance of the fence difficult and they grow slowly. If you have little ones consider whether the flowers will draw stinging insects. I really like but didn't have much luck with micro clover. Died after the 1st year.

I’m no pro, just someone with a little DIY experience. The problem is in your faucet. Replacing a faucet isn’t that hard. Totally agree with Joseph that you need to know where your water main shut off is and ensure you can turn the water off there before you touch this or any other plumbing thing. (I know a guy who caused $50K in damage to his house because he messed with under sink plumbing, caused a big leak, and didn’t have an accessible shut off valve. Got himself all new hardwood flooring, baseboards, etc.). After locating the shut off valve and making sure I knew how to turn it off I would turn off the water supply under the sink- there should be two valves, one for hot water line and one for cold. Shut them both. Turn on the faucet…a little water should come out (what is already in line) and then it should stop completely. If it does not, you absolutely cannot do this work yourself. If it does, you can remove the faucet by disconnecting the water lines from the valves and unscrewing the nut beneath the faucet that holds it in place. As a relative novice I would feel comfortable changing a faucet but not disassembling, troubleshooting, and reassembling a faucet…you will need tools and plumbers tape or putty- your videos will show which tools. (As an aside, there is huge variation in the quality of plumbing products…there are reasons some cost $29 and some cost hundreds. If yours is a crap faucet it should def be replaced. If it is a good metal one maybe you save it and take it to a plumbing supply store in future and try and fix it and use it elsewhere down the road). Alternatively, you can stick with your current situation through the winter, but turn the hot water off each time using the under sink valve. Given the leakage rate of hot water you describe, you are having money drip down the drain every day that could be saved to pay someone to do this work in the spring.

Bud count--it's a sore topic here. We have so many beautiful seedlings whose buds counts are fewer than what seems acceptable these days. To make matters worse, bud count can vary from scape to scape and from year to year. Here's what we generally do. We plant the seedlings and leave them in place until they are about 3 years old. If a seedling is outstanding, we might take stats at the end of three years. Then we move the plant to a select bed, usually leaving it as a clump, but sometimes splitting it into two pieces. It will take 2 to 3 years for the seedling to come back to full strength. Then if we decide it will be registered, we take stats and then line out the seedling. We take counts and measurements and take an average of those, but we do this usually just once or twice during the evaluation stage of that seedling. Any hybridizer who grows many seedlings is just not going to have the time to take stats every year. Also, I think that the stats should reflect an established clump, not a daylily newly planted. I try not to include rebloom scapes in those totals. Rebloom scapes usually have fewer buds and are sometimes shorter than the original in our climate (though sometimes there are more buds and it's taller). Bob and I have come to the point where we think bud count is over-rated. There is more to a beautiful daylily than bud count. Sometimes the bud count is so high that the flowers are crowded and don't open nicely. Sometimes the bud count can be lower but the scape density makes it put on a good show. And just because I get X number of buds doesn't mean another gardener will get the same. Here's a good tip for taking stats. Wait until the scapes are dry and can easily be pulled out. Pull the scapes and bundle them with the name of the seedling. Store them somewhere (that's why our garage never sees a car in it) and wait until the cold days of winter. Do your measuring and counting in the winter. That's not my idea, but comes from Dave Mussar in Canada. Nancy

I think debra is right. It looks like Undulata Univittata. I looked at my Night Before Christmas, and the leaves are more strap-like and the center is wider. Vee. look up Undulata Univittata at the hostalibrary.org. It looks like a match to me. bkay