It might be a subspecies, because I have a typical luciae already and the leaves are a little different and not at right angles. But I'm almost positive those aren't flowers because the top of the plant was cut off and there are more bulbils between the leaves further down the stalk.

First you cannot id a flower from a picture because of the great variety in seedlings. It is the wrong petal shape for Kaneohe sunburst, it is the wrong scent for Charlotte Ebert but looks like it in the first picture. It could be related to Kaneohe sunrise but the scent is not rose. Without knowing the parent plant, you will never really be sure Charlotte Ebert (sweet perfume smell): Uploaded with ImageShack.us K. sunburst: Uploaded with ImageShack.us K.sunrise: Uploaded with ImageShack.us Ted Chinn Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Sometimes cuttings do get a bit soft before they root...especially if they've been trying to root for many months. I had a 9" hot pink cutting I took myself which started to get soft. When this happens, I remove it from full sun. I figure why dessicate it even more? I just kept the rooting medium mostly dry, continued to mist the top, and lo and behold, it rooted. The stem is starting to firm up slowly. That said, a soft cutting could also mean stem rot from too much moisture in the rooting medium. I would have used one part cactus mix to one part perlite, then create a depression in the potting mix and add pure perlite, use Rootone on the cutting, set the cutting in that. The perlite keeps constant moisture off the cutting. Some cuttings don't need such careful treatment, but some do!

Westes: An automated trench digger that goes down 3 feet is still feasible. The majority of the roots are in the upper 2 feet. I saw a crew tearing up the neighbor's asphalt drive-way, they used an automated digger that tore up the hard drive way FAST like a fork going through soft cake. Digging a long trench through my rock-hard clay by myself was the hardest part.The easiest part was to use a SHARP SPADE to chop a few roots DEEPER than 2 feet. The trench was too narrow & deep so I could not use a pickax. A 4-prong pitch-fork is handy to pull out the tree's roots from your rose-bed. A deep spade is a the most powerful weapon against black spots, fast drainage is created when one removes the rocks below. If there are rocks below, it will delay drainage and black spots occur when ACIDIC rain-water pools up in root area. David Austin Rose Catalog recommends using a pitch fork in gardening. I can't garden without pitch-fork and LONG DEEP SPADE. My long-spade is 25 year old and it was better-quality back then. Newer ones on Amazon can't compare to the old-garden tools. Some pics. of the brick-border dug down to 2 feet to stop my 20-year-old Norway Spruce tree from invading my garden: Above is TRIPLE-PROTECTION against root-invasion. 1) Right most is DUG-DOWN-brick-border (using 4" thick cement blocks at 2 feet depth, and smaller bricks on top to level out. 2) To the left of it I fill with stones from my garden (the size of oranges & lemons). 3) I put LARGE SQUARE BLOCKS on top TO DENY THE TREE-ROOT (ON LEFT) OF RAIN-WATER. The pots on top used to have tree-root CRAWLING UP inside. Norway Spruce tree roots VARY IN DEPTH. Where it meets my rose-garden, it stole water to be VERY DEEP, at 2 feet, so I use 3 bricks-level (large cement blocks at bottom, and a small Holland brick on top). Then as the root goes toward sunny & dry spot it became shallow (so I use only 1 brick level). That's the advantage of putting down bricks: ONE CAN ADJUST THE LAYERS OF BRICKS according to roots' depth. If I had done corrugated vinyl siding .. it would be IMPOSSIBLE to adjust the height of the barrier. Plastic Shield like corrugated vinyl siding comes in FIXED depth (like 2 feet or 3 feet) and it's major work to cut a hard-plastic sheet. I have lots of thick Plastic-edging in my garden (dug down to 5 inch., and it takes me 20 min. just to saw off a 5" section. Above upper-left shows the Norway-Spruce root going into my rose garden. Below the pots there's cement blocks dug down to 2 feet. On the right-edge of the pic. is another barrier of cement-blocks (dug down deep). Where the 2 barriers merge in a V-shape I put more square blocks TO PREVENT RAIN WATER from seeping in. This was done last year. This month I dug in my garden to plant new roses, zero Norway Spruce's roots came in. The barriers are 15 feet away from the trunk of the 20-year-old-evergreen tree.