how to strike an olive tree from a cutting
21 years ago
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- 21 years ago
- 21 years ago
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propagating olive trees from cuttings
Comments (2)I had an Italian olive tree for seven years and found it very easy to get cuttings to root. I did use rooting hormone. I just cut off short pieces of branches about 10 inches long. Always used the branch ends (terminal bud section). Striped of the leaves that would be below ground in the cup. Placed the cuttings dipped in the rooting hormone in soft potting soil. Never sprayed or covered them. Set them up behind the front brick wall on my patio during the summer months. This wall was exposed to sunlight most of the day. Kept the potting soil moist. For every five started usually had three take. I don't have the tree anymore. A few weeks ago I gave it to a friend of mine who has a hot house. I could never get it to flower even keeping it indoors under lights during the cold season. Lou NE., PA...See MoreStriking Cuttings From Flowering Shoots???
Comments (14)Yes, this is true. I was trying to think of the mechanism which may be responsible for the phenomenon of "selective propagation" which has been observed. Think of it like this -- to produce flowers, certain genes need to be active to produce their ingredients. To produce more flowers, more of some ingredients are required. If a cane "sports" to be more flowering than the rest, a genetic mutation may not necessarily be the reason (although it could be). It could also be that one or more of the genes making the "flower-producing ingredients" is/are more active in those cells. If that difference relates to epigenetic changes which can be transmitted to future growth via mitosis, then taking a cutting of that piece will result in "bloomier" plants. When you take a cutting, cells at the base reconfigure their DNA expression to produce roots. But the top part maintains whatever DNA layout it has to continue producing "top growth." It's possible that "selective propagation" would be more successful using budding/grafting, so that all future canes derive from top-growth rather than new shoots from the base, which would have to undifferentiate and then re-differentiate to form new top-growth and (hopefully) "remember" the "bloomier" epigenetic changes. But as this has been seen in propagating other "bloomier" sports on their own roots, it isn't always necessary. Plants which can reproduce asexually have a better ability to "unwind" any epigenetic changes to differentiated cells to make them undifferentiated, and then re-differentiated to form different growth. This flexibility is not as built-in among mammals, making cloning of them more difficult. In plants, this very "flexibility" is what allows us to root cuttings and make new plants. But it's also this "flexibility" that allows plants to throw phenotypic "sports" which will vary in appearance, but not necessarily in their DNA sequence. If people spot these "sports" and manage to coax the cuttings to grow and maintain these differences in DNA expression (without having differences in DNA sequence), new selections may be made via asexual reproduction which vary phenotypically but not genetically. :-) ~Christopher...See MoreHow do you root peach and/or willow trees from cuttings?
Comments (8)Peach are very hard from cuttings, but willow is a dead cinch. Take dormant cuttings in late winter or early spring and they will root easily . Works well with the old "stick in ground under fruit jar" method. Black Haw (Viburnum prunifolium) is common over most of Eastern US, even up here in PA. Clean off the pulp and soak in warm water overnight. plant about 1" deep outside and most will sprout next spring. These also root sucker a lot, and these can be divided off for new plants. Burr Oak (Quercus macrocarpa) acorns should be planted about 3" deep outside also. I'm a native Okie, born and raised there, but have been up here in PA for 35 years. Hope you have luck with these. George...See MoreOld olive trees drying out and giving no olives.
Comments (3)While olives may be quite drought tolerant when established, they DO appreciate watering during very dry spells. It is suggested to water 1-2 times per month in summer, with a slow deep soaking (not a sprinkler) - no water in winter. A soaker hose or drip irrigation are very efficient methods of slow water delivery. Flowering and fruit production depends heavily on proper pruning practices. Production is heaviest on one year old wood and you want the tree canopy to be vase shaped, open and airy. There is an old Italian saying regarding olives that you want to prune them so that a "swallow can fly through them", meaning that light and air are allowed to penetrate into the center of the tree. This link offer good pruning tips and a helpful video. What is causing the dieback is impossible to determine from just the photos. If you resided in this country, I'd suggest taking in photos and samples to a plant pathology specialist (via extension service) for diagnosis but not sure what similar services you may have in Turkey. This link provides an excellent overview of olive care and cultural requirements plus outlines a number of disease pathogens - some quite serious - that can affect olives in a manner similar to what you are seeing. Regardless, any dead portions should be removed but until you are able to ascertain exactly what is causing the problem, I would suggest sterilizing any pruning equipment between cuts. But my first order of business would be to locate someone local to you to properly diagnose any possible disease issues....See More- 21 years ago
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