I don't know why time-release fertilizer would be enough of a problem to cause that dramatic of a reaction. Do the fertilizers in question contain micronutrients as well (specifically manganese, boron, and calcium)? Deficiencies in those three elements, or damage from some insects, can cause distorted leaves. Beyond that, I don't really even have any guesses.

That's just what the flowers do: they're only white and pretty for a week or two before going green and then eventually brown. There's nothing wrong with your plant. Peace lilies (Spathiphyllum spp.) can flower at any time, but mine have generally seemed to prefer summer and winter. They typically flower for a couple months and then take a break for four months or so, then start up again. You can maybe encourage the next round of blooms by fertilizing lightly, though the leaves will brown if fertilizer builds up in the soil, so don't overdo it -- more is not better, when it comes to fertilizer. It may also help to move the plant to a brighter spot, though again, more is not better: you shouldn't go any brighter than sun filtered through a curtain, or an east window (or both). Possibly it's just coincidental, but I've found that mine have a tendency to bloom after I move them, too, and it doesn't seem to matter whether I'm moving them to a more humid place, dimmer, brighter, dryer, colder, etc.: just the moving seems to bring on blooms. I've never seen anybody say anything about this in books or here at GW, so you'd be good to be skeptical; I just know that mine always seem to bloom after I move them somewhere.

Cloughton, as far as having a pot with no drainage holes and can you grow a plant in such ....YES....you can...but its not recommended. Think of it this way...you know you need to water the plant...but how much. Too much, and you know the water will sit for a time in those stones you are taking up space with. How much of the water is the plant using. If you know, if you can trust your instincts, then there is no barrier to letting your plant grow this way. But most of us cant really tell when the plant is using its water...and how much is being taken up. The roots we know should not be continually surrounded by water...like us, we wouldn't think to stand in water too long--our skin would pay for it. So putting drainage holes in the pot, allows iet it drain away that excess water the plant cant use. When we water, we give it enough that we know has gone down to the roots. Its the roots that feed the plant. And we don't want the roots to be forever standing in water...so we let it drain. If such water was allowed to sit at the roots and not be taken up by the plant, they would soon rot and prevent the plant's tissue to tkae up nourishment. Putting a hole into most containers is easy as long as you take it slow, use the correct drill bit and take precautions so as to not cause the pot to split or crack. Enough of that! I suggest you learn something about "exposures". i.e. from which direction the sun is invited to pay its respects to your plants. Usually we speak in terms of direction. North, east, west and south. Such exposures to sunlight does give to plants certain intensity of the sun's rays. West is slightly warmer than south, which is to a degree warmer than east....and all three of them are warmer than north. Most plants do not do well --- cant do as well...put in a northern exposure. You have heard the expressions...."full"...."partial"...and "shade" when referring to how plants are best suited. Its in their genes. Full sun is that which is normally thought to be of a length of time...8 hours.....down to 6 hours is what benefits those types of plants needing it. Partial sun plants get along famously with 5 --even 4 hours of sunlight. Shade plants....and there are different degrees of shade..are those that do well outside in a northern or to the sides of this exposure...intensity. There are a few houseplants that can do very well in a northern exposure. But, when we think about it, how such exposure limits the sun's intensity to give to our plants what they need, we try our best to find a place to put our plants in so that they receive more fuller sunlight. Then there is the question of seaons. Do you know we get our seasons because the Earth is tilted. If the Earth was not tilted on its axis....all seasons would be the same....the north would be cold...the middle warm...the center hot....and I guess would be where we all live happily ever after. All light then would be the same and we could put our plants in any window and get the same intensity. But that's not the case is it. And Peace Lily...."spathiphyllum" is the Latin name...likes it bright...but just not direct sunlight. But then, because the sun is not shining as bright now as it will later on, we can give the Spath more direct light without putting it in jeopardy. I suggest, for the better sake of the plant, you try to give it a better light source. West or south is suggested. Your heat register causes air currents to flow in and around your room. If a plant is in direct path of such current of air, it can dry out that much quicker and the abrupt change of temeperature can affect badly a plant. How much, depends on many factors concerning the plant. So generally, try to not let your plant be put in a direct path of warm air currents. This also applies to cold air currents....from doors that are constantly being opened and closed. (windows too) Plants too should not be where they can be bumpted into by persons using the traffic paths. Where sunlight is not so bright, and if one wishes to give such light, then try to "raise it"...either by placing it on a pedestal or table or shelf....or hang it up from the ceiling. If walls are of a brighter color--especially white or oft white, such wall can reflect light back to our plants. This can amount to a very helpful way of giving more light to our plants when they need it. Generally, keep a plant trimmed when it is actively growing....it can then fix itself for how we treat it. Too, we often trim our plants' leaves to keep them in good looking order. We use scissors to trim the edges or tips when the occasional brown or yellow shows up. Most housepalnts though are slow --to a point--growers and need not be pruned per se to any great degree. Withdrawing them from light will often cut back their growth potential. Same goes for how much fertilizer we give them and how much water we give them. But don't starve your plant of either should they need it.

There's seeds inside those berries and they should germinate. Don't let the seeds dry out, most aroid seeds need to remain moist or they lose their viability. You'll also need to keep them warm as they germinate and grow, northern Victoria will get too cold in winter for them. If looked after the original tuber will also grow again in the spring.