xerophyte, I strongly disasgree with your belief that the sacrifice of oldest leaves for a new flush is "normal". Yes, normal (apparently) for plants under stress being grown in pots in northern climes in lower light and cooler temps, but not indicative of any healthy means of cycad growth. We are talking here, popi's case, to be outdoors. Absolutely cycads need excellent drainage. Ideally plant them on a berm of soil to always ensure adequate drainage even if you fertilize and irrigate/get rain frequently. If the oldest leaves are always continually lost at each new flush of leaves, there is no net gain for the cycad. Mere replacement of leaves never allows the plant to truly grow and gain more food for growth other than just to sustain itself (or to avoid starvation). There are many cycads in my collection that have comparatively few leaves--DIoon edule and spinulosum, for example, have typically 8-10 leaves. When the finally get around to a new flush, these older leaves do tend to go more prostrate, but they do not die. If they would yellow, it would tell me that they are nutrient starved as they are pulling Mg, Fe, Mb and other minerals from the old tissues to build and fuel ANY new growth in order to survive and not croak. Same with Cycas debaoensis, C. revoluta, C. cairnsiana, Encephalartos gratus, E. lehmanii, E. ferox, E. trispinosus, to name a few from experience outdoors. The Cycas circinalis that now have numerous leaves that remain green after subsequent flushes are healthy and what you strive for. The older leaves are creating the food that allows new flushes to be more robust and the maturation of the new fronds are usually larger and/or longer.

I've heard that you can force a new flush with high-nitrogen fertilizer but in my experience cycads grow pretty much on their own mysterious schedule. Last year one C. revoluta flushed in the spring and again later in the year; the other only flushed once, in mid-summer. This year, one flushed several weeks ago, the other is just starting to flush. Both are the same age and get the exact same care. This year I applied a high nitrogen fertilizer in hopes of forcing a new flush, but nothing so far.

My plant is over fifteen years old, has three suckers, this year it began to grow beautifully (at Last!) and suddenly the fronds are turning yellow each element almost to the base of the centre rib of the frond....even the suckers are acquiring this discolouration. Please advise...is it disease? nutritional deficiency? insect pest? I love the plant and would like to save it.

Your posting offers no information on the conditions your plant is experiencing. But I will put it succinctly. Cycas revoluta is not a good "houseplant". They want to be outside. They prefer a subtropical Winter (cool even chilly temperatures but protection from hard frost) and long, warm to hot subtropical summers. Slight to moderate frosts are not a problem for them btw. They want a well-drained soil with plentiful moisture in the Summer growth season. They grow seasonally. So typically they will show a growth spurt from Spring into Summer (assuming they are summering outside). In my zone, they will push one growth spurt per season (so maybe up to 20 new leaves will develop in a season). In Florida, they can push two growth spurts. Mine get wheeled out in early Spring (March) then wheeled into a sheltered area before a harder frost (December). So, March through November they are outside, basically, in full sun with maybe a bit of protection from the hottest sun. Indoors, there is not sufficient sun for the foliage to mature and growth indoors is actually deformed. Mine are kept cold enough in the Winter months to inhibit growth. The cold temps also reduce problems with scale and mealy bugs with this species. Sorry I can't be more optimistic. I have other species of cycads but these too don't get into the house. Maybe someone might suggest a species or genus of cycad more tolerant of home conditions. I happen to really like Dioon but don't know how they would do in an average home.Good luck!