I know I've seen some sizable niches here in the past year or so. Do a search at the bottom of the page for niches and see what you can pull up. I'll post some pics of the niches in our three bathrooms. Our niche sizes/placements/orientations were based on various factors; shower storage needs, tile shape/size, behind the wall restrictions (pipes, wiring, studs....). Guest bathroom niche: Hall Bathroom niche: MB niche: HTH!

For a jetted tub used as a shower, it has to have an integral tile flange. That allows the wall cladding to overhang and any water that hits the wall to not go behind your walls. There aren't that many in that size that are inexpensive. It will need a specialized drain, and, if you want to spend any time in the tub, a supplemental heater so the water doesn't cool off so fast. Since it's a tub/shower, the wall cladding will need to be redone to be waterproof into the tub. It's possible, if the build is recent, and it was done with the proper vapor barrier behind it, that only one row of the tile would need to be pulled in order to replace the tub. But, I wouldn't count on that. I'd count on having to replace all of the wall cladding in the alcove. That can be as cheap as a plastic surround for around $100 or cheap tile with the proper vapor barrier for probably $150 or so. The first is the easiest and the least chance of leaking. The second will read as more upscale, but you have to be sure your contractor understands about the vapor barrier and correct materials to use to tile this (NOT mastic.) And since you have that torn out, it would be foolish to try to keep your current control valves for the bath unless they are also very new. New safety standards are in place for anti scald mechanisms. So, you will need a new shower/bath faucet and valve. Then you will need the electrical line run from the panel to the location for the whirlpool pump and supplemental heater. That location is usually opposite the drain side of the tub. You will need to be able to site an access panel that is removable to be able to get to the electrical innards here. That can be from an adjacent room, or from a hidden panel on the tub itself. All in all, you might be able to get all of the needed materials for 2-3K if you shop the box stores carefully and find some bargains. The danger to that is that if you are inexperienced, you don't know if you're buying quality or crap. They sell both. And that's one reason that it would be simpler to let the pro pick the products after you tell him the features that you want. Then you've got to pay the contractor labor to install all of that. The electrician's price will depend on how difficult it will be to access the panel and run the wire to the location. For that, it's a really good thing you are on a crawlspace! That makes it cheaper for both the electrician and the plumber. On the whole, I'd expect your project to cost between 5-7K, depending on location, and if you have no DIY skills to bring to the table and have to hire professionals for the whole job. And be sure that you hire someone that is licensed and insured to be in your home, and will pull the proper permits to get the job inspected with your code office. Some handyman guy isn't licensed to do electrical of that nature, and while he might be able to do the demo and get the tub in place and glue on the plastic surround, it's unlikely that he'll have the right insurance to deal with a large job like that, and thus probably wont' want to pull permits and be inspected. They are usually limited to smaller jobs like simple fixture replacements like a faucet or light. Which this isn't. Just remember, you are doing a project that combines electricity and water. You really have to know what you're doing here! A small General Contractor should be able to do the complete job, and also carry the needed papers. And he should have no problem with the code guys coming in to inspect his work either. If he does, then he's not the right person for the job.

If I want to take a bath, I want to be able to stretch out my legs. Babies have shorter legs :-) I sat in the Kohler Underscore yesterday 60 x 30 and the lumbar support is awesome! I'm 5'7" and had another 3 inches for my feet so could stretch my toes too! I need an alcove tub. https://www.us.kohler.com/us/underscore-60-x-30-alcove-bath-with-integral-apron-integral-flange-and-left-hand-drain/productDetail/bathing/1302655.htm?skuId=1302576&brandId=656492

The key when looking for tubs is to pay close attention to the bathing well and water depth. The well is the space for your legs to stretch out. If you get a tub that slopes on both sides, it will have a smaller well than one that only slopes on one side. The water depth is harder to find. Just because a tub says its 23 " high doesn't mean it has a good water depth - there are supports underneath, maybe accommodations for above floor rough-in or the upper part of the tub is curved. I have seen 23-24" high tubs have a water depth of 16" ! Not all specifications will tell you water depth but you may be able to figure it out by the overflow height - keep in mind that number is from the floor so you have to really look at the spec sheets. Find yourself a good plumbing showroom - they can do the deep dive to find the right one for you. Good luck!!