My fruit trees are planted on the north side of the house -the raised bed boxes on the south side. I don't use the Borage in the vegetable boxes, it grows quite tall and bushy, taking up too much room. However, on the other side of the house - north, with a cement wall between properties, I have spaced my fruit-bearing trees - as I mentioned before. This gives quite a large space between wall and house to plant smaller things - like mint, ornamentals, rosemary, ferns in shade, etc. As borage grows quite tall, I try to keep it as close to the trees - with smaller sun-lovers in front. I also have 2 camelias getting shade from fruit trees. The borage re-seeds - vigorously, so as soon as it completes its job attracting bees, I start to weed it out -although it does a good job of controlling undergrowth as summer heat comes on, and I don't want to plant anything. We do have water shortage problems now. A bit OT, but I have been watching (interested amateur), the on-going discussion on bees, pollination, their apparent demise in some locations, and consequences as a result. Also - here in California, we have the added problem dealing with bees - crossing the border from Mexico, establishing themselves in urban areas - which some folks feel are African or "killer bees." While it may be easy enough for governments to establish ordinances - for things like gardening, animal keeping - such as chickens, raising birds for profit, etc., etc., I don't know how they could determine who might be at fault for "keeping" bees. Bees aren't usually "kept" as they are free to wander where they may. I say that knowing that it could be a heated topic of concern. Bees rarely heed such things - and if they care to, will nest in a box - even a worm bin, in a compost pile, or someone's attic. In my opinion, if I could - I would keep the bees until they performed their chore, then hopefully, discourage their expansion - and allow them to escape to areas more environmentally friendly for them - and less problem for human activity. If such an idealistic condition could be achieved, it might keep a lot more folks happier. Just my 2 c's. Oh yes - do plant Borage and pull it out wherever you don't want it. Bejay

I planted 7 beauregard (spelling) sweet potatoes last year. I planted them in 2 rows about 2 feet apart. Those boogers took over the entire garden by the time they were ready to harvest. fortunately, the rest of my garden was done by then (except for a handful of peppers, which didn't seem bothered by them) They spread out and set roots about every 3 to 5 feet. I found potatoes over the ENTIRE space they spanned out. In fact I've now found new growth coming up in my garden at the very edges of the garden on 2 opposite sides where apparently potatoes were not discovered and left in the ground. I filled about 4 or 5 five gallon buckets with potatoes ranging in size. LOTS OF TATERS and they were sure good. I remember asking for advice on them last year and someone told me that if you sever the runners from the main plant as they spread that they will become their own plant and the potatoes will be bigger. (kinda like with strawberry runners) This year I took a bunch of the fingerling slzed spuds and cut them in half and rooted them and then took the slips from them and potted those up (I'm selling them) and I have a ton of plants now to sell or give away.

The tree and the roots were not large or old enough to interfere with your garden in the past, but now the tree/roots have matured. Black walnut roots, leaves and nuts all comtain the compound juglone, which is toxic to most other plants. There are a few plants which will grow under black walnuts, but not too many vegetables. I am afraid you will either have to move your veggie garden or remove the tree. You COULD try growing in containers, using soil from elsewhere in the garden (well mixed with potting soil or compost, as container soil needs to be MUCH lighter and better-draining than ordinary dirt), but will have to be vigilant about the leaves and nuts dropping on the containers and plants. If you opt for cutting down the tree, it will take about a year, maybe more, for all the juglone to be gone from the soil. Google for black walnut toxicity or juglone toxicity, and you should get a lot more info.

I personally just water the place where the ants are coming out, small volumes 5-6 times daily, they eventually get the message and relocate... Here is a link that might be useful: AntZ