ya, the baby hobo spider is more potent than the adult ones, and you have headaches for 3-7 days after the bite, blister on the bite, and ahhhh here's the thing, actually one of them, LOL When envenomation does occur from the bite of a hobo spider, local and/or systemic manifestations may appear. The severity of these phenomena are dependent to a degree on the age and sex of the biting spider: In laboratory experiments the venom of the male hobo spider produces more severe effects than that of the female, and evidence exists suggesting that the venom of subadults may be more toxic than that of adults. The local effects, which appear following most hobo spider envenomations, represent a type of necrotic arachnidism, which is almost identical to the local effects produced by brown recluse spider, Loxosceles reclusa, poisoning. Typically, immediately following envenomation, a large (several cm.) area of redness (erythema) forms around the bite site: This usually disappears within a few hours, leaving a small reddish induration (hardened area), which is not dissimilar to the classical "mosquito bite". Within 24 to 48 hours blistering may occur at the bite site. Within an a additional 24 hours these blisters may rupture, leaving an open ulceration. Within a few days of ulceration, if left uncovered, eschar or "scab" formation begins to develop over the lesion, and by three weeks post-bite this becomes pronounced, giving the lesion a "target and bulls-eye" appearance. Following this, the "scab" is sloughed and the lesion generally heals, leaving a scar, within 45 days of the original bite. In some instances, particularly when the bite is delivered in an area of fatty tissue, such local lesions may become deep and extensive, and may not heal for two to three years, as exemplified in the photo below. Hobo spider bite, 1999, Darwin K. Vest, Eagle Rock Research Other long-term physical effects, such as intractable burning pain, damage to blood vessel valves, and cyst formation occasionally occur in conjuntion with local lesion development. The lesion that results is sometimes oblong or multiple, resulting not from more than one spider bite, but rather from gravitational drift, which moves venom components downward, away from the bite site. The process which causes the local phenomenon of necrotic arachnidism involves circulatory disturbances which result in ischemia, or lack of adequate blood flow in the affected tissues. Following venom injection, rapid coagulation of blood occurs in the smaller blood vessels of these tissues. This produces a centralized area which does not receive enough blood, and the area literally dies as a result of oxygen starvation. Systemic, or generalized effects are seen in about 45% of persons envenomated by hobo spiders. The most common reported symptom is severe headache, which usually does not respond to over the counter analgesics (aspirin, which can prolong bleeding time, should not be used for hobo spider bite induced headaches). In addition to this, victims may experience a dry mouth, nausea, weakness and lethargy, dizziness, visual disturbances, hallucinations, joint pain and/or other undesirable effects. As with many types of complex poisoning, most victims of systemic tegenarism do not experience all of these phenomenon, but that is dependent upon the severity of the poisoning. About 15% of envenomated subjects are poisoned severely enough to require hospitalization: In rare cases aplastic anemia (bone marrow failure) can develop several weeks after the bite, which results in a fatal outcome. Another rare but dangerous condition that has been seen following hobo spider envenomation is the development of severe intractable vomiting accompanied by secretory diarrhea. Some cardinal rules apply to persons that have been bitten by, or think that they have been bitten by a venomous spider. Above all, if you are bitten by any spider, and actually catch the spider in the act, always capture the spider for identification by a qualified arachnologist. Never discard a spider that has definately bitten a human. In the case of the hobo spider, not only is positive species identification important, but so is a determination of the spiders sex and age; these factors can help predict the severity of potential poisoning, and assist the attending physician in charting a course of treatment. Preserve the spider (or whatever parts of it remain) and take it to the clinic with you. If you suspect that you have been bitten by a dangerously venomous spider, see a physician. Most suspected spider bites in the United States turn out to be other conditions. The vast majority of spiders are harmless and beneficial. i also read that you don't know when you get bit by them. and about the burning, i just pop the blister, and keep the vinegar on it, next time it happens i will just pop the blister and put vinegar on a cottonball, and put a bandaid on that and leave it on. that should make it better. this time it took a LONG time to heal. and mine formed a scab after a week and a half. then it finally fell off. ~Medo

My Passi' is next to a New Rose Bush (so it's small) and the Rose Bush is Next to a 3yr old Butterfly Bush. My Butterfly Bush is Bare for the first 18" or so because of Mite Damage; it got so infested no matter what I did that I just cleared out the whole bottom of the Plant. Now the Passi like I said is very close and the Mites don't seem to bother it. The only way I have found to get rid of Mites is Just Spray each Leaf Seperately to get the Mites off. Here is a suggestion someone else had about mites; take the whole plant and cover it with a Clear Plastic Bag; find a way to tie it off; this way it works to create it's own humidity and after 2 - 3 days all the mites will blow up; seems they fill themselves up with the Moisture and they don't stop so they blow up. I haven't tried it; but I may soon. Today though I saw a bunch of Ants crawling on my Margaret; I really don't like ants at all; they give me that deep shrill inside that grosses me out; I had some Bug Killer from Bayer that I sprayed it with and it killed all the Ants; and then I rinsed it with Water; I know I am not supposed to do that but I am not comfortable with that stuff sitting on my Plants.

Yup, you're right. Thank you! Just had it ID'd at Bugguide.net. Kinda worried about getting bitten, though... just read that these are among the most likely to bite, and that gardeners are most at risk for this. In my small space, we are likely to encounter each other quite a bit. I know they won't cause me harm, but I am likely to freak out and hurt it if it does bite me, and I don't want that to happen. On the other hand, the benefits he will likely bring may outweigh this worry...

Mites damage orchids quickly and quietlyoften their presence is not noticed until significant damage has occurred. Mites are visible, but their presence is easily determined by rubbing a white cloth over the area that is damaged. If mites or their eggs are present, a brownish residue will be left on the leaf. This will come off and be visible on the towel. Some spin light webs which are visible on the plant or at the base of the plant. A very good natural remedy is an oil/soap treatment. Dr. Martin Motes recommends using a light oil--such as vegetable oil. Olive oil is very heavy and could potentially damage plants. Using 2 TBS oil/gallon is sufficient, you can add a teaspoon of baking soda for a bit of antifungal. Remember to keep shaking the solution in the container to keep the oil mixed with the water. Spray thoroughly on all sides of the leaves. FOLLOW UP with a soap solution about 7 days later. Using 2 tsp/gallon of Joy or Dawn (dog shampoo is great too) not only does a number on the pests, it helps clean off the oil treatment. I actually follow up with a third treatment in another week with the same soap solution. The soap/oil mixture remedy has been shared in the past, but the University of Florida recently discounted it as the two agents act in direct opposition of each other and essentially decrease the effectiveness of the effort. Just like the TV ads say, the dishsoap is designed to cut grease (oil) in its tracks! :) AOS recommends Malathion, or Volk Oil/Sunspray for scale. Also Knox Out 2 FM or Orthene Turf, Tree and Ornamental Spray. Mites are nasty buggers to get control over. If the infestation is confined to one plant, isolate it to prevent spreading--watch for that carefully. Be careful to follow the label on preparations TO THE LETTER to avoid damage to plants. One tip for success is to make sure you do TWO treatments of your selected poison about 7-10 days apart in order to catch newly hatched pests. Submitted by Rhonda Heide