THRIPS! They're thrip nymphs! What I saw was definitely the shiny back of a nymph/juvenile adult before they go dark. Here is a link that might be useful: Look! Thrips!

My family and I operate a tiny market garden where we use both organic and biointensive garden methods. We have added OM to our planting beds via our own compost, green manures, decaying plant matter, and mulches like straw and hay. We have not added peat or sand and, up until just a few weeks ago, we had not added any soil amendments either. 2012 is only our second year of raising crops and already we see the great benefits of adding OM. Our double dug raised beds have a much improved tilth, water is more easily absorb (this time last year the soil's surface would become so compacted that water would just run off), water drainage within the bed has improved, we've seen many earthworms where there was nothing before, and the winter weeds that were just removed last week had very deep root systems. In 2010 our garden area was an overgrown mess of pines, young hardwood, brambles, wild privet, honeysuckle, kudzu, and lots of other nasty stuff we didn't want or need. We had two acres cleared with a track hoe. Unfortunately, we lost all the topsoil and the ground became very compacted from the weight of the track hoe. We literally had to use picks to break the soil for our first six 3'x50' planting beds. It was awful, but we were determined, and now we reap the benefits of that determination. We will not spend time and money on any type of soil conditioner but will instead learn more about building our soil through proper composting, planting green manures & cover crops, mulching, and adding natural soil amendments such as alfalfa and kelp meals. OM is where its at! Here is a link that might be useful:

I currently have 2 tanks operating with fine sand over Flourite, a L 20 and 55 and both have become jungles. Once the sand has settled in a planted tank and the roots have established, clearing mulm really isn't all that difficult. Just don't get the end of the siphon tube close enough to the sand to take it up. The mulm is so much lighter than the sand and never as compacted, so once you determine the right diameter of hose to use for just enough to pick up mulm, you can run the end of the hose just above the surface and suck up mulm without taking up sand. BTW: If you use a foam prefilter over the intake strainer on a power filter, it will never pick up any gains of sand to damage the impeller. It's also a great way to combine bio-filtration with mechanical. When I do water changes on the 55, I use two siphon hoses. First a small diameter, to clear the mulm from the substrate, then a larger size held higher in the water, just to drain it more quickly. It works. Actually, the largest chore with the sand is in cleaning it before you use it and why I'm awaiting spring and warm weather to wash enough to set up another 55. I washed the flourite for it in the sink in my greenhouse and ended up needing to clean out the sump with a shop vac afterwards. The next batch will be done in a watering trough, where extra sand below and around it will be a benefit and not a problem.

Hi, I will answer regarding to Dyckias: With or without lime Dyckias hate soil! Try organic substrate. Pick up one that is more than 90% organic, very light weighted and extremely aereated. Terrestrial doesn´t mean on the ground bare and nude atop soil. Terrestrial means or should be understood as not hanging from nor atop a branch tree. Terrestrial may be rupiculous (on rocks) , sand dwellers and also on the ground soil but always where it is almost 100% organic! Do not ever forguet the drainage no matter where you plant your terrestrial bromeliads. They all enjoy water, passing water and never clogged, never wet feet specially during the winter nights. Enjoy your plants, nature and yourself! Wanna see some Dyckias? Here is a link that might be useful: DyckiaBrazil