A possible use for your packing peanuts: Get a pot about 2 inches bigger than your plants pots all the way around including taller. Put peanuts in the bottom of the big pot and set your plant on top of them inside the pot. Stuff peanuts around the side of the big pot evenly around your plants pot. Maybe it would help insulate your plant and also let air get to the plant pot too. Try it with 1 pot and see.It'll only cost you whatever the bigger pot costs. If you have wood you could make boxes with drain holes to do the same thing. You could even make the boxes with bottoms that hold the plant off the ground a few inches. If you wanted to go crazy with it you could route the boxes with a design or use a wood burner to decorate them. Make a Stencil to use to spray paint/stain/waterproofing a design or whatever on the wood so they all match. Shouldn't be hard to cut a bunch of them out at once. Like making a birdhouse without a roof or bottom-just sides of a box. Don't really need a bottom,use a couple screws that go through the sides to set the pot on and staple some fiberglass(non metal) screen on the bottom to hold the peanuts in. Wood would probably insulate the plants some and peanuts between should be better than airspace. They don't conduct heat well and might allow for a limited amount of air to curculate so the wood dries out and doesn't rot from gettig watered and rained on etc. If you have a tablesaw you could rip a bunch of sides out of plywood pretty fast.Thats if your pots are pretty close in size to each other. Some places cut the wood for you for pretty cheep-so much a cut. Might be easier to pay acouple bucks to get them pre-cut rather than taking all the crap off of your saw or clearing all the junk out of the way so you can work on them and just decorate or seal the wood and slap them together. A stapler or nail gun would make it real fast too...if you have access to those kinds of toys. Better yet someone who could show you how to use theirs because you want to borrow it....Could ya show me just one more time? :)

I build in what may be a similar climate. (Please note that gardening zones are not climate or hygrothermal zones. See International Energy Conservation Code (IECC) energy zone map below.) I only use high-density spray foam on the rims. But the way you describe your retrofit, the combination of Roxul with sealing may be more appropriate if you see a need for accessing any of the pipes that would be buried in the foam. (I can't imagine why you would need to access the wiring.) Unlike fiberglass, on which mould grows when wet, Roxul will not wick water and does not have to be replaced after heavy wetting. However, unless great effort is put into cutting the insulation to fit, there will be gaps that reduce the R value. Whatever method you use, you might want to meet IECC minimums. Beside referring to the table above, you can use the map on this link to find IECC county-by-county insulation requirements. If this is an unfinished basement, termite shelter tubes will be visible on the foundation walls inside; and, for the same reason, be sure the foundation is exposed on the exterior. There's no particular moisture problem. Sources of ignition will have to be shut off during application. Don't forget the water heater. This post was edited by worthy on Wed, Oct 22, 14 at 0:02

Re: rychnc "I have a pond nearby so I plan to run loops though the water." If you have a suitable pond to run your loops in youve got it made! This is probably the least expensive way to do geothermal, no drilling (except through your foundation wall), minimal trenching. Whats to think about (providing its permitted)? Re: cookingpassion Geothermal systems using copper tubing in the ground loop are called DX or Direct Exchange systems and run the refrigerant through the copper tubing in direct contact with the ground. Theyre great systems providing your ground is ph neutral. Regular systems use high-density polypropylene pipes in the ground circulating some kind of antifreeze. This necessitates the use of an additional heat exchanger and a circulating pump as well as boreholes being about 40% deeper and twice the diameter resulting in higher drilling cost. We have a DX system; never had a problem with the boreholes GREAT SYSTEM! However, I always play it again in my mind, were we to it again, would we go DX? Im really not sure. Both systems have their advantages. I would probably go for conventional only for peace of mind and to distance myself from this whole controversy. My wife on the other hand, who is a supremely intelligent and knowledgeable lady says, Look, we know the ground is ph neutral; since when have we ever had a problem with the tubing in back of a fridge? Thats the simplified version. Its a tough call especially for an IGSHPA accredited installer. SR I can no longer find the link on the copper.org site to this interesting fact sheet about copper, so Ill just copy and paste. Its rather long, I apologize. Breeze though it if you like. About Copper What's Your Best Buy Today? Copper or Plastic? When comparing geothermal systems, compare the value and benefits of copper compared to the plastic pipe used in water source geothermal systems. No heating and cooling piping product is totally immune to all problems. However, for more than 60 years copper-based products have continually proved themselves to be the most robust and reliable for all kinds of heating and cooling systems. There was a time when we were limited to a relatively small range of basic materials from which to make things: wood, stone, iron, brick, leather, cotton, wool, and of course, copper. Copper is man's first, and still most indestructible non-precious metal. Because copper withstands corrosive elements better than any other engineered metal, it long ago set the standard for plumbing systems. The 1940s fostered the Age of Synthetics, an era of technological change. It was the natural outgrowth of an economic system that stressed mass production and sought substitute materials which would do the same job for less money. Manufacturers looked at plastic for a wide range of building products-especially plumbing. Lower first cost, rather than long term reliability, was the driving force. Recently, however, we have seen a growing reaction to this "throw away" economy. Consumers realized that the "cheapest" was not necessarily the least costly in the long run. In many cases, they found that some of the old, basic materials are still the best, still the most economical, because they last and give years of reliable trouble-free service. Copper or Plastic? Here's why generations of homeowners and professionals in the building community feel copper is the best and most economical material: * Copper plumbing has a 60-year track record of nationwide acceptance for water, waste and space conditioning use. * Rigid standards govern the composition and properties of copper products for specific applications. And all products can be tested to ensure conformance to these standards. * Precision and control in manufacturing assures a quality product and long service life. * Copper tube products have permanent product identifications, including type size manufacturer and country of origin. You know what you're installing. Inspectors and owners know what's been installed. The manufacturer backs up the product. * Nationwide, codes and standards assure reliable installations. * Refrigeration contractors have more than a half century of know-how, experience and customer satisfaction with copper tube and fittings. * Copper systems can be installed, tested and used year-round at any temperature in any climate. * Copper systems can be tested immediately after installation. * Copper is not damaged by either near-freezing or boiling water temperatures. * Copper requires virtually no maintenance and can be protected more easily from damage than plastic. * Copper's superior thermal conductivity provides superior heat transfer. * Copper can be stored or used anywhere, indoors or outdoors, without harm or deterioration by the sun's ultraviolet rays or other weather elements. * Copper is non-flammable. Unlike plastics, it doesn't burn or melt or support combustion. It maintains pressure even when subjected to flames. * Copper will not "pipe" flame through walls or floors. It does not violate the integrity of fire blocking. * Copper plumbing products do not give off toxic gases when exposed to fire. * Copper tube is rigid, requires fewer supports, and does not sag over long runs. Copper, unlike plastic, will not fail from the "rubbing" or abrasion normally encountered in service. * Copper tube is flexible (whether it's hard-drawn or annealed) and has a smooth "polished" interior - which means it's easily installed anywhere and will not impede the flow of refrigerant. * Copper silver soldering is a safe, reliable and non-toxic operation. * Copper is fatigue resistant. Copper systems do not present the problems associated with excessive and repeated contraction caused by extremes in temperature. Well-installed copper joints are for keeps, they will not break down or pull apart. * Copper scrap has a high value when sold for recycling. It ecologically friendly. * Copper does not rely on domestic or foreign oil production for its manufacture. * Copper tube is all natural. No synthetics are introduced or used in its manufacture. It is environmentally friendly. * Copper is a noble metal combining extraordinary corrosion-resistance and high strength for refrigeration piping applications. * Copper tube and fittings can, if necessary, be disassembled and reused. * Copper plumbing, like copper wiring, has recognized quality and value that helps sell (or resell) your home or building. * Copper plumbing protects your home investment. It's an insurance that pays dividends year after year after year. * Many decades of in-service experience have proved copper's reliability. It will outlast the life of the mortgage. * Copper systems are the worldwide refrigeration standard of excellence. * Copper has eight times the thermal conductivity of other metals and is the material of choice for high performance, high efficiency heating and cooling systems. Due to its high performance characteristics, copper is the material of choice for American Geothermal(R) DX direct exchange geothermal heat pumps. * In the United States, nearly 50 percent of the copper used each year comes from recycled sources. Copper is one of the most highly recycled materials and can be used over and over again, helping to preserve natural resources and the environment. * Copper plumbing products offer unbeatable quality and value. * Copper tubes and joints are strong. They can withstand pressure surges and rapid temperature changes without rupturing. * Copper plumbing lasts. Copper doesn't become brittle with age. Once installed, it stays installed. * Copper is an investment. When the time comes to sell your home, the quality of copper refrigeration piping and plumbing can actually enhance its resale value. Copper is the right choice no matter where you live. It meets or exceeds all standard refrigeration and plumbing codes in all 50 states. * Decades of successful service say, "You can trust copper." For more information on the value, benefits and technology advances of copper visit the Copper Development Association web site at www.copper.org

ok, a lot happened today-- my landlord (also a contractor remodels/builds homes) came by --always shows up when I least expect it, cuz he squeezes me in on his light days. anyway, first of all- the house is approx 650 sq' -- about 25x25' give or take he has listened to all my whining about the moisture and my bed, so he installed a nice big quiet exhaust fan in the bathroom!! VERY quiet and works AWESOME I gotta say. He also finished off the garage doors/mancave where my husband lives (literally) the doors had to be rebuilt and rat proof. did a good job I must say. --the garage is at least 20' from the back of the cottage. I asked him about the insulation: attic-- since a certain amount has already been blown in, he said 1 or 2 bricks of the stuff at most (his apprentice says he will help me blow the stuff in if I rent the blower and buy the bricks of the stuff and of course pay him, but he's cheap. just flakes out sometimes and doesn't show.) one of us blowing, one patting it down as he put it (i guess making sure the beams are exposed) the outside ice walls--he told me his apprentice can drill holes outside at top of under eave between each stud, and put foam in there, then plug back up the holes.They've done this many times on very old homes with plaster lath/board homes.The redwood siding is easy to patch back in the holes. He did it for a back door light. the crawlspace--he told me it would cost LOTS of money to have someone do that, but it can be done a DYI. He says R19 batts with metal clips under the subfloor between floor joists or whatever those boards are called (I forget) but it'll take daysssss. He has gotten under the entire house to all 4 corners, it is just a LOT of twisting,contorting your body and not being claustrophobic --which I have no issue with since I love cave spelunking!! I did one last year in the gold country and the roof of some of the cavern was literally right above my face,pitch dark, like being in a coffin i guess!so peaceful. but anyway, i could do it if i'm brave and take my time-it sounds like a month lol, but i'd had to be dressed the right way,have the tools,make sure i know my paths!! and maybe my "loving" husband would hang nearby in case i get stuck or something. well at least in cell phone range. so all this stuff sounds promising...I will be here a long time. My family does (who live around the corner) I have to say he's done a lot of work for a rental, and I've put in my fair share of my own money already.but it's my home and want to retire here (yes I'm only 51 but I'll work till I'm 65+ just give me good health!) so what do you think now? tackle which project first? oh and he's letting pick out the new color of this house that'll be painted in the spring!! pale grey blue!!cottagey blue! with white trim around the 2 front windows and the white front door that I am going to pay to replace it. so one project at a time, I'm not a Rockefeller in the least. heck i owe taxes ug. anybody live close by and want to help? I'll pay money and feed you, I can't pay normal contractor rates :( that's why I have to do these projects on my own. and husband wants nothing to do with the house. (he's fixing up his garage and apt man cave. so...what items to I need to do-keep in mind I can't do any of this alone I think too dangerous.--watch me get stuck under the house lol! attic-- equipments and protection and approx cost? crawlspace-- equipement and protection and approx cost outside walls--equipment and protection and approx cost? well a lot was accomplished today. I should take photos but have no clue how to put them on here.ok, so i now need opinions. THANKS guys!