Leave the long shoots. Cutting them off just sets the whole thing back, and makes it use more of its stored energy resources to grow new ones -- those new shoots will be "wimpy" compared to the original ones. I've planted potatoes with shoots foot long -- just gently wind them up and push into the hole. The reason for cutting seed potatoes is not horticultural, its economic -- its to reduce the cost of seed per area planted. A large potato can be cut into several smaller pieces. Taken to the extreme, some mail order nurseries sell little plugs from around an eye. I personally dislike the entire practice -- cutting does increase the risk of rot and loss, albeit not by much when done properly. But, I also think that the smaller the piece, the weaker the resulting plant. Once again, this is a fairly arguable point, and there are many other factors involved aside from the size of the seed piece. My preference is to pick out seed potatoes that are a "medium" sized example of their variety - not the smallest, wimpy ones and not the large ones that need to be cut. Since the feed stores where I get seed potatoes offer them for sale in bulk bins, its easy to pick through there and select the size I want. I also got lucky this year and found a large quantity of dirt cheap grocery store sprouted potatoes that I used for seed -- these were very large potatoes, but I planted whole to avoid rot and because the price wasn't a factor -- they were 10 cents a pound on the clearance rack of the produce department, so I could afford to plant whole.

I picked and shelled the first batch this past weekend. I only got a bit less than a quart of shelled peas, but there's another round ready to pick. How long do these usually produce? The plants look fine and healthy, not like my bush green beans which often start looking puny after the first picking. We had green beans we needed to cook, so I froze most of the first picking, only saving out a half cup to throw in with the green beans. They were right tasty, though it is hard to separate out their taste from the beans. I figure to cook the next picking right away. I don't have any kind of sheller, but I got pretty good at zipping them open by the time I'd shelled the first batch. Seems like a good thumbnail helps! Chuck

Keep potatoes that are starting to sprout in full light in a cool place that stays above freezing. I chit potatoes by a window in a cool guest room each year, and the sprouts stay small and compact with the sunlight and the cool temps......don't know what I'll do if guests want to visit during that time :) Here's an article on potato chitting: http://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/greensprouting-potatoes-zb0z1203zlon.aspx Since you already have sprouts you should start with the, "Then move the spuds to a cooler location (about 50 degrees Fahrenheit) and expose them to light for about three weeks. The light will make the sprouts turn green and stay stocky," part of the directions. I find cooler soil temps are okay with soils that drain well. When I plant in clay soils, I wait for warmer temps. I've lost a few when I started early in the heavy soil. Potatoes planted in sandy soil have done fine in the cooler temps. I'd prefer to always grow potatoes in the lighter soil, but that isn't always an option for me.

Seems to be a common problem this year as two others asked the same question just a few days back. Answer is if you can plant them and cover the sprouts with soil without breaking them, fine. Otherwise cut them back. Dave