I bring my Cordylines inside as I have ample space and enjoy the red or purple/black foliage as contrast to so many green foliage plants. I have left one outside but it came back the following spring too slowly...it was just 12" and didn't put on that much growth this summer, whereas the ones wintered inside just took off immediately. My favorite, Alternanthera dentata "Purple Knight", will grow to 36 inches here and will do well inside in pot, hold it's color, even have small fuzzy insignificant white blooms under a lamp or on windowsill. It can be pruned back easily to branch more and form smaller stockier plant. I have a couple of other Alternanthera, no label, one has bright red leaves and another butgundy foliage but only grows to 15" or so. Same care applies. I often cut tall stems along with various large Coleus and Ipomoea batata "Marguerite" or "Blackie" to make a big "bouquet" in water. Rinsing and removing dying leaves is necessary for a week or so but easy and once roots start I have a "living bouquet" until spring...just keep topped up with water. In spring I don't try and plant whole plant with roots...I just make new cuttings and discard roots formed in water. The better the light the more vibrant the colors but sun isn't necessary, just a windowsill...at least here in AL. Even a tall lamp with 150 watt bulb will do. This method also works with Cordylines, by the way...I've cut tops off and put in large floor vase stabilized with black Japanese water stones...or in ceramic pot with just plain rocks. There again, I just make top cuttings in spring to root in soil...the roots formed in water don't adjust well to soil in my experience. I find it easier to grow in water than in a large pot and easier to top up wth water with no aggravation from too much water drainage into overflowing saucer or underwatering. (I have about 100 other plants to care for...LOL). Good luck. josh

It's not a unique anecdote, but not at all common. Have you done any zone pushing/cheating before? I don't recall you in those kinds of discussions, but relying on my memory isn't recommended. There are usually one or more mitigating factors, the most important (get ready to gasp) and common seems to be drainage, gauging from an amalgam of anecdotes and experiments over the years. A soggy spot is not where survival 'miracles' happen. When it's the difference between z7 and 8, that magical gardening line, it's usually (IMO) a matter of the ground not freezing. Doubtful that happened where you are, surely the ground froze in that extended cold period - but how deeply? I'd have to think the roots remained in unfrozen ground to stay alive. I'd like to hear more about the spot where this happened, in that regard, and what else you think might have contributed. Heavy leaf cover? Nearby brick hardscape or wall? Overhang blocking most of the moisture? Some kind of pipe under the ground keeping that spot warmer? Heavy cover of mature trees? There are other factors, but they're not coming to mind at the moment.

Several Cordyline plants in a nursery in British Columbia with spots on leaves. Looks like "measles". Cause? Please help.

Hi Michelle, No special requirements. I used to clean the seeds but have found that they germinate even if left in berry. I squash the berry and plant in propagating mix no more than 10mm deep. Keep in warm spot out of direct sun and presto, within a few weeks , up they come. If you have the coloured variety(fruiticosa),chances are you will not get the same as parent plant though. You will get a lot of plain looking ones, but you never know, you may get a completely new one.Out of 400 I planted, I have 2 that are are showing promise. Interesting that not 1 of these 400 was like parent plant. Good Luck