Before using Photinia fraseri, check to see that it does not suffer from fungal disease problems there. I'm still laboring--some--under the belief that clipped photinia suffers much more from this condition, while the tree form Photinia (where the top is allowed to grow uncut) is able to flourish. Miscanthus giganteus seems like it could be interesting, but also seems like it has the potential to overwhelm, if not watched. Many deciduous shrubs could be grown as trees. If pollarded annually, they would form dense branch clusters, so would screen during the winter. I would consider those as a possibility, too.

I shopped for bamboo a while back, and was astonished to see 5 gal. containers of it sporting $50 to $70 price tags. I ended up digging up some roots along a county road, and I'm trying to get it started in a planter box. Seems like a lot of people are really down on photinia. I've got a hedge of photinia, and have had little trouble with it. I've lost one plant to fungus in 20 years. Originally, there were apparently 30 of them, set out maybe 25 years ago, with two of them dying before I came along. Virburnun Suspensum makes a great hedge, and will grow fairly rapidly to 8 ft. or so. It knows its place, and doesn't try to become a tree. I may water mine twice, on average, during the summer. Mine get only 4 or 5 hours of direct sun, and I'm not sure how they would do in full sun. If you're looking for something that's tough as a boot, and will grow like a weed in sun or light shade, I don't offhand know of anything that can match the old Japanese Ligustrum.

If speed is of the essence I would consider installing a chain trellis (my latest name for it) which is like a privacy fence, but is not a fence. It requires the installation of 10' posts every 8' or so. (2 1/2' buried in the ground.) For a 100' run that would be 13 posts. (If you've ever installed one post in concrete, you know how easy of a job it is.) Finials or decorative cuts of some sort at the top of the posts -- and painting -- make them look attractive. A pair of stout hooks are installed at the top of each post from which sturdy (like porch swing) chain is run connecting post to post, in swag fashion. From the chain, twine is dropped at 1' intervals and attached to short wood stakes driven into the ground. All of this is a support for vines to grow on. A solid screen can be achieved in 6 to eight weeks with annual vines such as morning glory or moonflower. Simultaneously, perennial vines (which start and grow slower) are installed. Within a reasonable period, they "take off" and provide permanent cover. In some cases it is an advantage to have vines over a hedge if a tidy appearance is desired; the vines only grow where support is provided and tend to look as if a clipped hedge. It could be a disadvantage if height greater than 7' is wanted since the support will never become taller than it was originally. One feature of this structure that I enjoy is that during a windy period, continuous waves form in the foliage and add a mesmerizing element of movement. In the picture, you are looking at first year annual vines (moonflower) ... picture taken about 8 weeks after planting seed. If none of that works for you, consider a hedge of tea olive (for great smell) or Camellia (for great looks). (Verify that they will grow well where you are.) Either one could be clipped. They may not be the FASTEST growing shrubs, but I would consider them fast enough. As well I would counsel to develop some patience about it. The need for speed frequently means sacrificing quality over the long term.

There are several running varieties that would grow in that canopy and be thick enough for a barrier. Many of the Pseudosasa do best in about half shade. Also look into the Semiarundinarias. At Avery Island, there is a lengthy grove of Arrow bamboo that has areas that get no direct sunlight and it is all very dense, but then the parts that get sunlight may be feeding the parts that don't. I have an unknown running variety here along the creek at my house that will NOT grow out into the direct sunlight, but it does extremely well under the canopy of the thick woods. It reaches about 12 to 15 feet in height. My sun intensity here, and the warmer climate, is different than yours so your results will differ. All bamboos will grow in dappled sunlight and many in even complete shade but with bright light, but they will usually be thinner and may grow a bit taller in less direct sunlight.