Elaine, with only five roses to treat, squishing the aphids between your fingers is the most satisfying way to get rid of them. Lorraine Lee , which is an Alistair Clarke rose , not a David Austin, does not like being pruned to harshly. A heavy dead heading is about the best way to describe the pruning method . If the aphids are out of control, the pyrethrum spray should get things back in balance for you.

regards, Shane, Toowoomba , Qld

I see that you don't want to use chemicals I agree with you, but I am fairly sure Pyrethium spray is quite safe not really a chemical in the same way as the others are.
Jan.

Thank you Shane and Jan. :-)))

Elaine

Better than anything try Confidor for 100% kill on aphids.
It's no less a chemical than pyrethrin (or for that matter, any substance known to man eg water,air etc.)and is
actually less toxic than pyrethrin.You can buy it at local nursery or garden shop in a small inexpensive bottle.
This relatively new chemical (the active constituent is imidacloprid) is also a vetinary product for treating parisites in dogs and cats etc.

I agree with Thrip's comments, although I admit I haven't tried Confidor yet.

Whether it's pyrethrum or some other spray, it's a chemical. Pyrethrum daisies are native to Africa and even a low concentration will kill fish if it gets into a pond or waterway. I don't see how that would qualify as organic in Australia although I don't see why it matters. We're not planning on eating them (I hope!).

I spray a relatively dangerous chemical (Rogor) but I only need to do that twice per year to keep aphids out for the whole season. It has no impact on beneficial insects, and kills only those that eat any part of a rose bush. To me that is more 'organic' than repeatedly spraying a product that has only temporary benefit and stands to kill bees, ladybirds and other beneficial critters. But there are many ways to skin a cat, which is the joy of forums like this!

Coolowl, you can use a milk spray for black spot - one part milk to six parts water, sprayed over and under leaf surfaces on a sunny day. Once again I'm not sure that qualifies as organic (maybe you need to use organic milk!?) but it works.

Thank you very much to all the responders to my questions :-)))
My question really revolved around *making the roses resist diseases and pests* rather than actual treatments. That's my understanding of the philosophy behind "organic" gardening.
I'm aware that everything is a chemical and it's not a term I use in the context that some people use "chemical" and "non-chemical" - as though something could be a "non-chemical"! It wouldn't be anything at all!
Regardless, it was an interesting exercise and I am grateful to the folk who answered - I was not able to answer personally as no email addresses are available.
I'm still at the beginning of my quest for some cultural changes I could make to help the roses *resist* disease and pests. I have squashed regiments of aphids and have heard of the milk spray - regardless of the benign nature of these treatments, they are still *treatments* and not ways to make the roses intrinsically healthier which is what I still want to do. I should live so long!
This form of communication is complex so I'll sign off from this forum. In the meantime ...
Happy gardening and thank you again for your responses :-)))
Elaine

Aphids are sucking insects that have a large number of natural enemies including lacewings, hoverflies, ladybeetles and parasitic wasps. They tend to be a problem where the use of pesticides is wiping out the natural enemies or at times of the year when natural enemies are not present in large numbers.

Hence, grow something to attract the aphid enemies. Marigolds, day lillies etc.