It is an Ochna; Here is Ochna Thomasiana, Vietnamese mickey mouse plant. Here is a link that might be useful: Ochna Thomasiana

I have a good idea what's occurring, but I can't be sure w/o all the information asked for. You're almost certainly over-watering. If a pot is 10" deep, the bottom 6" of grow medium could easily remain 100% saturated when the top inch or two of the medium is dry. I suggest you skip the finger test and start using a "tell" to "tell" you when it's time to water. (see 'Using a Tell' below. Over-watering makes uptake of Ca(lcium) difficult. Without enough Ca in the nutrient stream (and it must be present in adequate amounts at all times, cells/tissue cannot form normally. This leads to poor root growth, misshapen strap leaves, malformed leaves, clawed leaf tips (like your tree), and other less conspicuous symptoms. W/o the needed information, I'll have to guess that whatever type of light you're using is too close to the affected leaves. Photosaturation is the point where the plant has absorbed all the light it can handle. Additional light beyond that point results in photoinhibition (a slowdown of photosynthesis). Duration and intensity of the light the plant is exposed to act conjointly to determine when enough (light) is enough. To some degree the excess energy associated with photo loads beyond the saturation point is turned to heat before being lost to the surrounding air - a safety mechanism, but in home environments where air is usually comparatively still, the boundary layer of air surrounding leaves acts as an insulator. Abnormally wavy leaf margins is a built-in defense mechanism which reduces the angle of incidence of the light hitting the leaf. Light is most intense when it strikes the leaf when the light source is 90* to the leaf surface. Wavy margins forces much of the light to strike leaf surfaces at angles other than 90*, which has the effect of reducing photo load. I ask again: What kind of light is the plant under, and are the leaves closest to the light the ones with the rippled/ wavy foliage? Also, how close is the light to the affected foliage? Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al

The image isn't of much help because the leaves can't be seen well enough to read what might be going on. It is in a pot with hole and sits on a metal stand few inches above the floor with tray on the floor to catch excess water. So there is a gap of several inches between the bottom of the pot and the bottom of the saucer so there is no pathway by which the water that drains from the pot can make its way back into the grow medium? I use water meter or my finger to test dryness for top soil. Usually water once a week to 10 days. Water meters are very unreliable, and using the finger stuck in the soil to determine when it's time to water is usually a recipe for over-watering when the pot is deeper than about 5". If your pot was 10" deep, when the top 2 inches feels dry, the bottom 6" of grow medium can be 100% saturated with water. Using a "tell" you can make from a wooden dowel is much more reliable when it comes to determining appropriate watering intervals. I fertilize once a month or less often with fortified 20-20-20, usually several times diluted than the recommended on the bottle. You're not providing enough supplemental nutrition and the 1:1:1 ratio of 20-20-20 fertilizer supplies more phosphorous and potassium than the plant can use relative to the amount of N it supplies. Your fertilizer also lacks calcium and magnesium, and derives all of its nitrogen from urea. If you're watering correctly, so the entire soil column is being wet and at least 20% of the total volume of water applied exits the drain hole, you should be fertilizing about every 4th time you water during periods of robust growth (late spring/ summer), and maybe every 5th time you water during the darker months (Oct thru Apr), if you live in the northern hemisphere and north of about the 25th parallel. My suggestion would be to start using Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 fertilizer, which provides complete nutrition from a single source. Fertilize at recommended rates. Also, skip the finger and water meter and use a "tell". Your plant wants more light than it's getting (low light can cause leaf shedding). You might find this Overview of Good Growing Practices to be helpful. If put in place, it will definitely help you avoid all the major obstacles almost every grower encounters on their journey toward a green thumb. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al

Unless they are small plants from recent cuttings, receiving a perfectly healthy, unblemished plant from an online source would be the exception rather than the rule. white spots on a couple of leaves (actually in the leaves, can’t be wiped off) These are likely the result of A) something splashed on the plant that was marginally phytotoxic, or B) symptoms of a culturally caused physiological disorder called oedema/ edema, which most often results from a period of bedding over-watered black marks on the stems Whenever most plants are pruned by cutting through an internode, the portion of stem between successive leaves, the internode dies back to the most distal node. The ficus branch cutting below was severed by cutting through the branch between the leaves (through the internode). That stub will die back to the next node. If you look closely, you can see an angular collar encircling the stub at its base. The proper way to remove the stub would be by cutting at the same angle as the stub immediately above the ring. You can do that - cut all stubs back to the top living leaf. New branches will occur immediately above the leaf, just as in the ficus image I provides. It's an obligate process, meaning it WILL happen as long as the plant remains alive. one stem appears dead at the top with a black ring separating it from healthy green stem Not to worry. See what I wrote immediately above. Al