FRPP struggles here, too. It grows more robustly and is not as chlorotic as Reine des Violettes, but it does get somewhat chlorotic here. I have an alkaline sandy clay soil and moderate marine influence. This rose does get some PM. It was a little milder this year, but it was still noticeable. I have not grown it long enough to know if that is normal variation due to the weather conditions or if FRPP does better as it matures. Without looking it up to be sure, I think mine is 3 years old. I agree that Old Town Novato is happier in my garden. If I were to choose between the two for a garden in my area, I would pick OTN. Rosefolly

the first pic is hard to interpret .. but it looks like it was jammed in a corner with less than a foot of space on two sides ... ergo.. it is lacking vigor and sun on two sides ... and things happen to plants that lack vigor.. as in .. they can be attacked by all kinds of things ... and if thats the case.. trying to remedy secondary issues.. never really solves the first issue ... lack of sun ... frankly.. the easiest solution/treatment ..... is to get rid of it ... why spend 20 dollars on a cure.. on a $10 plant .. ken what about a trellis and some clematis .. that can hopefully grow up into the sun ...

its extremely stressed .. fert is not an response ... stress is related to digging a field grown plant ... shipping.. unloading.. whatever at the nursery ... however you got it home ... what you might have done to it will planting .... etc ... interior yellowing.. and eventual browning is normal .. and increased by stress ... i bet some of the browning that is not interior.. was shipping damage ... pull rock away from trunk.. so the trunk stays dry like its supposed to ... conifers.. simply do not turn brown all that fast ... and that is why i blame some of the MINOR damage on shipping ... it happened months ago.. its just 'showing' now ... see link for proper watering... you didnt tell me where you are ... but the soil. at root depth simply isnt going to drying like it might have in the heat of summer ... and you test soil moisture by inserting your finger 2 or 3 inches ... and finding out if the soil is moist down there ... what the surface looks like is immaterial ... try to to love it to death by drowning it ... and i highly doubt cold is an issue ... depending on where you are ... the most important thing you need to do.. is start thinking in tree time... which is years and decades ... you are over reacting to some MINOR problems ... the rest of the plant looks great for having made it through summer as a large new transplant ... if you want to maintain it in this form... you are going to have to learn how to prune it to that shape.. yearly .... and when the time comes after next springs growth ... you can snip out all the minor dead spots ... if you get up close and personal... with any given pom pom .. you can look inside.. and see where prior cuts were made .. and dont freak out because its all brown inside .... soooo .. insert finger .. water ONLY when it needs is ... pull the rock away from the trunk .. just single depth at the trunk ... no fert.. and RELAX ... tree time.. ken https://sites.google.com/site/tnarboretum/Home/planting-a-tree-or-shrub

'We have 2 of these and only the one is turning brown which seems very strange to me.' Like plants can have different personalities. On top of that, soil structures can vary in different locations. Even just a few feet away. Your other tree is more than likely 'holding it's own' but is not too far behind the first one that's turning brown. Water every day is too much for almost any tree, unless they're 'swamp trees'. The first week after transplant, every day water can be okay but after that, every few days for a week or so, then go to once a week if no rains. Your particular planting site can vary according to exposure to sun, wind and other variables so it's best to check frequently until you get to know your particulars. Once the roots are over transplant shock and begin working again, they'll keep extending into the soil and cover a greater scope and increased capacity, so dry soil sensitivity will decrease over time. Again timelines will vary considerably depending on your variables.