It will be a couple years before you notice anything. There have been no infested trees found associated with the find in Genesee Co. That being said the insect found in that trap is most likely an outlier from a higher population somewhere else (possibly closer to you or further away). For reference the infestation from Randolph in Catt Co. is 5+ years old. Localized damage around town is heavy if you know what your looking for but many people to this day do not know the insect exists in their community. The farthest find from "ground zero" recorded this year was 2.5 miles. The find in the Hudson is much Larger, at least a decade old. A conservative estimate of the infestation in that area would be 50 square miles. Many people point out how fast this is spreading, but in reality they are just pointing out the fact that we are getting better at finding it. The more people that are educated, the more people find it, and the "faster" it spreads. When in reality it may have been there for quite some time and no one noticed it. The original infestation in Michigan was found in 2003, however that population most likely dates back to the early 90s or late 80s. This will kill 100% of your ash. This will hit anything larger than your thumb and when your saplings get some age on them they will be hit by beetles coming from other properties/ trees. This will continue until your seed bank has been depleted. In order to save the trees you would need a simultaneous die off of all ash everywhere, at which point you could re-plant. This is unrealistic. You could treat some trees that may add value to your property but a forest wide treatment is also unrealistic. The general rule of thumb for treatment is, if you have a known infestation within 5 miles you should start treating trees you want to save. Also younger more vigorous trees are better candidates for treatment because they relocate the insecticide better. I would contact your local Extension office (master foresters), Local DEC Forester or other private forester for recommendations. If left on its own you may not be happy with the outcome (invasive's). Bio control may have some affect but what i have heard has not been all that promising. It will not be the answer but it may help if a management strategy is developed. There is no doubt about it that this will drastically alter forest composition, especially in the southern tier. Jared Spokowsky Senior Horticultural Inspector (WNY) NYS Dept of Ag / Division of Plant Industry

If you are referring to the Palo Verde Borer Beetle the answer is no. These beetle larvae live inside the roots until they mature and then they emerge as adult beetles. (They are big and ugly). These larvae are called grubs and are a cream color generally with a brown headcap. They curl into a 'c' shape when disturbed. Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and would not be eating your tree. Because your tree has been in the ground nearly a year you should only need to water deeply once every two to three weeks during the coming summer and less often next fall and winter. Applying about 70 - 90 gallons each time is ideal for a tree the size of yours. If your watering is correct and you haven't applied any herbicides (weed killers like Weed B Gone which contains 2-4-D) in the area, then there is a chance your tree may be planted too deeply. The zone where trunk tissue turns into root tissue (root flare or crown) is designed to remain exposed to air. When plants are installed too deeply soil if often added to make the container area level with the surrounding soil. This reduces the oxygen exchange to the trunk tissues causing suffocation. It is easy to check - just gently remove gravel or soil away from the trunk until you see roots. I have seen trees planted as much as 8" - 12" below grade. If this is the case the roots should remain just below the soil level, but leave about a 6 inch zone around the trunk so air can circulate. Recovery may take a while. Good luck. Here is a link that might be useful: Palo Verde Borer

Yep, as a nursery owner, I would be hesitant to replace stock from damage not incurred by my actions. Yes, I have gotten calls from folks who have had insect/rodent problems and they usually tip-toed around asking me to replace them, but my stock (as any legitimate nursery) was inspected and found free of disease and vermin. I would gladly replace it if I found any on site with a similar problem and also be happy a customer made me aware of it so I could handle it on my end. But, I would be hesitant to replace it if it weren't my fault. Only got pushed to do so once, by a retailer whose customer wanted to return stuff them them they had purchased from me. I told them since it impacted their customer relations, yes I would on the condition that their end customer removed all the plants and returned them to their store. I wanted to see what was going on with them for my own satisfaction and also to make it less easy for a consumer to do a replacement out of some frivolous reason. Hah. When I picked the returned stock up, it end up being a few dozen garden mums. Healthy as He**, just had finished blooming and they wanted to replace them with a couple dozen more with a later bloom date, for free no less, I suspect. This is rodent damage. If you replace them it'll happen again and again until you protect them in some way with guards. Do what your conscience tells you.

timing is somewhat dependent on how the season goes .... i would say.. in my MI... we are 4 to 5 weeks ahead of schedule with many plants ...i guess i would think its the same for seasonal bug evolution ... where did you get your info.. with those precise dates?? of all the things that i wouldnt waste money spending money on ... treating Ls would be high on my list ... but then.. maybe i dont love my plants like you do.. lol ...i roll more with benign neglect after watering for the year of planting ... ken ps: olives... they line the rural byways .. and can get HUGE ... upwards of 1o to 15 to 20 feet tall and wide ... and they are taking over those easements due to birds ...