I think you're going to need a deer fence to keep them out of your orchard...but planting in front of the fence will look nice and help disguise the fence. From what I've read, you can either do an 8' deer fence, all the way around, or two fences (about 4' apart) that are 4' tall. I don't know if this will work, but it's supposed to, according to some other forums. I've also read that an electric wire or two will work, but not here. We have an electric fence around our horse pasture (seven wires, two hot ones) and the deer jump over, crawl under and even walk through...very carefully. As for the roses, my deer like to chew on the new growth, but I plant them against the house or fence...and I put lots of lavender, other herbs and deer resistant plants in front of them. They still reach though in the fall, and nibble, but an exposed bush will get eaten down, pretty fast. Butterfly bushes are not thorny, but the deer don't care much for the taste. They also ignore (for the most part...babies taste almost everything) coneflowers, cosmos, daisies, lilacs, bee balm, mint, lavender, alyssum, marigolds, pontilia, blueberries, stock, tomatoes, acorn squash, sunflowers, white petunias (don't know why) pansies, violas, columbine, sweet woodruff and the strawberries, if they're growing under other shrubs or herbs they don't like. All deer are probably different, but mine don't pay much attention to these plants...so except for my roses, that's pretty much what I plant, here :)

Sorry, but I don't grow Alister Stella Gray and have never closely studied a reliably ID'd plant. However, I think you can probably rule out William Allen Richardson from what I can see. Probably the most reliably ID'd ASG I've shot isat Roseraie de l'Hay. Theone at the National Arboretum in D.C. has a similar look: lots and lots of fading of those bloom, which can open creamy and have strappy petals. The blooms are small and have more of a resemblance to your usual pure Noisette, apart from the slight orangey shading, with more open clusters. WAR has decent sized blooms and more of an upright, shrubby habit. Mine grows without support. The blooms open orangey and fade but perhaps not quite as much. The clusters have fewer, larger bloom and are more Tea-like with less space between the blooms and stiffer pedicels. The foliage is wonderfully thick and waxy in my garden on my budded plant. WAR has never won any medals for vigor here. It's a steady plodder, although OR it remains 3 feet.... Here is Here is a link that might be useful:

One of the things I like most about Salet is its hardiness. That won't be a relevant consideration for you, but for me the canes suffer almost no winterkill at all. My bush grows in the dappled shade of a flowering cherry, with the early morning sun blocked by an evergreen azalea. It also is infected with a rose mosaic virus (I bought it in the late 80's from Roses of Yesterday & Today). Consequently it doesn't grow as vigorously as Salet is capable of growing, yet even so after being transplanted from the Philadelphia area to the Boston area (a 6 hour superhighway drive further to the northeast) four years ago it now is approx. 3.5' high on four canes. So far it puts out one new cane per year, at the beginning of the growth flush following its late spring blooming. It's remontant, but not a strong repeater, with a big bloom in late spring and little thereafter. (I believe when it's growing in a better location it blooms very occasionally during the summer, and then blooms a bit more heavily in the autumn.) It's a moss rose that isn't heavily mossed, but very few of the mosses are remontant at all, so that makes it a rarity. I also believe it's regarded as one of the most dependable of the reblooming moss roses. The leaves are somewhat coarse in appearance, yet thin, with a healthy, flat, medium green color. (My soil is acidic and Rosa multiflora is an invasive weed here.) The leaves are notably hairy to the touch, although the hairs aren't really visible. The canes are heavily prickled, but the vast majority of the prickles are insubstantial. The prickles remind me of those on the cane of a rugosa rose, but they're less substantial than that. The flowers are nicely fragrant (as is the moss), about 3" wide, very double, and a medium pink color with a hint of lavender. In substance the petals are also more thin than thick. I regard Salet as one of the most satisfying roses I grow. Despite its less than perfect present location (& the horrific, droughty subsoil it grew in when it was in the Philadelphia area, where it barely survived, but did survive for almost 20 years) and its virus infection, it doesn't die back. The leaves get some crud in the summer (probably black spot, but the symptoms are a bit atypical) and it defoliates (about 70%) unless I spray it, but during the summer it also gets sprayed by lawn sprinklers for 30 mins. every morning at about 4:30 am. I wish I could stop that, but I can't! It puts up with much less than ideal circumstances and still gives satisfying flowers with almost no winterkill. So far the bush grows in a very shapely manner, with the longer canes bending into a gentle arch as the flowers come into bloom. One fault it does have is that the flowers struggle to open in cool wet weather, but that's not unusual for an antique rose with heavily doubled flowers. Here's the HelpMeFind entry for Salet.

I loved all my alba roses. I used to garden in zone 4b Ontario and did find survivor roses locally; one a wilding presumed rosa carolina plena, but spread about by humans so you'd often find it on deserted homesteads as well as along roadsides and ditches. Another rose I saw here and there in rural ontario was a presumed desiree parmentier; I had a completely untended wildly suckering patch of this rose, a very double very fragrant pink gallica, growing on the property of my first house; I brought some with me when i moved, so am likely responsible for another wildly suckering clump of fragrant pint roses. The gallicas are the other thing I miss down here, so bullet proof and dependable up north.