I've been thinking about heliconia in AZ a bit more and it seems that the big issue is that it may be so hot and dry here that the plant literally gets its moisture sucked right out of it through its leaves. Being a plant from humid conditions, its probably too "wide open" when it comes to transpiration, and would explain why your had withered off once they started to leaf out. So the trick would be to create a microclimate that reduces this evaporation/transpiration as much as possible. I got the idea that this spot at the Zoo was doing just that, since it was under tree and bamboo canopy, and was located near an area that has water draining to it, if not even lightly standing. (Rostrata btw, is one heliconia that can take some occasional standing water) There are a few tricks that come to mind that could help create a heliconia-friendly zone: 1) Overhead/side canopy that cuts down the hot sun significantly, and creates a trap for moist air. I'm getting the feeling that the sun is so intense in AZ that its really not necessary to have a heliconia exposed to much more than dappled sun. 2) A good source of air moisture to minimize transpiration and keep local humidity up- a mister system immediately comes to mind. I was standing under a mister at Home Depot the other day, landing on some hibiscus in next to full sun- the "feeling" in that area around the misters was alot closer to my backyard in Florida than the rest of the nursery- so I got the impression a heliconia would like that type of environment. I think that overwatering shouldnt be an issue with a mister so long as a good draining mix is used. Other ideas would be to have a large body of water nearby- for example a pool, water fountain, stream, etc. 3) A good mulch. In florida I use cypress mulch, oak leaf litter, pine bark nuggets, stuff like that. It forms a good layer of decomposing loose material on top that traps in alot of moisture. Here in AZ I have mostly seen people using "gro-mulch" but I'm not sure that will be enough- the heli I saw at the zoo was planted in a good layer of leaf litter from trees and bamboo- it was decomposing and had a nice swamp-ish black/brown color going. 4) Perhaps experiment with an anti-transpirant such as WILT-PRUF to help keep moisture in the plant. Wilt-pruf sprays on with a hand sprayer, and forms a natural mositure barrier on the plant surface. Its derived from pine trees. I've used it with success to protect delicate plants from Florida's dry/cold winter season. It also works well on rooting cuttings to prevent moisture loss. It might help a heliconia in this situation once it leafs out a bit.

At Exotica Tropicals in Brevard County Florida (Space Coast - Melbourne, Indian Harbour Beach, Satellite & Cocoa Beach area) We carry many varieties of heliconia, as well as other jungle-look tropicals (gingers, alocasia, aroids, bromeliads, etc) Check out the website: http://www.ExoticaTropicals.com Here is a link that might be useful: Exotica Tropicals- Heliconia, etc in Florida

As Karyn said, plumies cannot take freezing weather or hard frosts. You are heading into winter so the leaves will yellow and drop off. The bare stems need no water or a mist on the soil until they start growing claws for you around the end of September or early October. Bring them out when the danger of frost is gone and give them some epsoms salts and water to wake them up. Follow with high phosphorus fertilizer every two weeks which you stop (in the southern Hemi) about Feb or March so the plant can harden up for your winter. If your temperatures do not get below 4C you can leave outside. If colder you need to cover with frost cloth if short frosts or bring inside for the winter. Bill

Hi Its been some time since last time I visited garden web so Hi All. Yes you can grow and fruit some types of banana here in melb. I grow lady fingers, golden cross and another; I think its saba. I eat fruit of these every second year and its better tasting than any of the fruit you can buy from the grocers. regards Louis