The closer ones' garden is to a large body of water, in the East Bay the more the conditions favor powdery mildew. I suggest you avoid these 3 roses, they defoliated from in my garden from p.m.. -Ducher, Duchess de Brabant. "Le Pactole". and Luanne gave away "Alliance Franco-Russe" for all the powdery mildew it was covered with. Healthy roses for growing in the S.F. East Bay (west of the Caldicott where conditions favor p.m. and b.s. in warmer weeks of the year, include: "Anna Olivier" a fragrant apricot blend with pink hues. Tea is my favorite rose class and this is on my fave top 12 list. A mature plant is only c. 5 miles from the coastline and never gets sprayed and its healthy with gorgeous apricot-pink, fragrant roses. These are healthy in our organic rose garden with only Cornell. "Westside Road Cream Tea" far superior in disease resistance than "Ducher" where conditions favor P.M Etoille de Lyon Mutabilis will get p.m. but not enough to defoliate or reduce bloom production. These Pernetiana roses do well with only Cornell. Gruss an Coberg, Mari Dot, Soleil d'Or" In general I suggest you mostly chose roses with 5 -35 petals, because they will open in our cooler summers, if you have a warm sunny spot in your garden than perhaps up to 40 petals. I suggest you avoid roses such as and including "Souvenir de la Malmaison, they won't open and you'll be disapointed. "Sombreuil" the Bourbon-Tea does open and is healthy. Noisettes: Nastarana" avoid unless you care to spray it every other month. Blush Noisette" healthy but I think there are prettier roses in this class including La Nymph and Catos' Cluster which has very beautiful foliage, soft and abundant. Champneys Pink Cluster" healthy and has started blooming in March! thats a bit early for this class. "Lamarque" very healthy. "Reve d'Or" locally quite a bit more resistant to disease than "Mme. Alfred Carriere, though the later catches up (almost) eventually, as a mature plant. Crepescule" gets more p.m. (and a bit of blackspot) as Reve d'Or, though Crepescule can be grown no spray here as well, Hybrid Musk roses grow well here, I've grown 14 different H.M.s and never had problems with any. H.P.s: Mrs. John Laing, also you might ask Luanne to post here, as well, as she lives in Richmond, near the Bay. She is a heck of a nice lady and grows beautiful roses including many Austins and some H.T.s. Luxrosa

The question is not whether or not 42 degrees will damage the rose. If a rose can't handle our summer lows, all hope is gone. The question is, will a climate that can see temperatures like that any day of the year affect the ability of the rose to "grow back after taking a beating". Winter lows in the -20F range deal quite a beating to roses that don't supercool well, and there is a great deal of growing back that would be required. Do teas do this better than other roses? In general I have found that expecting roses to grow back from winter damage and bloom acceptably isn't a very effective way to grow roses here.

That is so pretty ... thank you for posting it. I tried pegging Ballerina but I haven't gotten any blooms since I bought it as own root November 2014. I am going to cut its long branches and grow it bushy which apparently worked for my two friends and their plants which were bought at the same time.

I grew it in full sun on my hillside. I'd have been afraid that partial shade, or any reduction of air flow could increase the tendency to virus. It did not respond well to a lot of pruning, here. But that was in a day when our climate was cooler and danker, and downy mildew was a threat. You MIGHT get more concentrated bloom, though. Mind -- it bloomed fairly heavily in spring. Didn't get around to much blooming again until Fall ... and then, less than in spring. But again -- that was in MY conditions.