The size of the tree doesn't matter much. On a regular basis, every 2-5 years, I bare-root/repot trees that are collected from the wild that are hundreds of years old. When you pot up, instead of repotting ..... well, I'll leave a copy/paste job from something I wrote about why potting up is a limiting practice and repotting (which includes removal of all or large fractions of the old soil and root pruning) is a rejuvenating process. Your tree didn't really 'take off'. What actually happened is the potting up temporarily eased SOME of the limiting effects of the root congestion the tree is under, which resulted in the tree being able to grow a little closer to the genetic potential it is endowed with. The trees new ability to grow with reduced restriction is simply proof of the restriction that will continue and increase in effect as time goes on. With regard to your plant not yet having grown into the new pot: a plant can be horribly root-bound and still be over-potted. Once the core root mass becomes congested, the effects on the plants growth and vitality are permanent unless the root-bound conditions in the oldest part of the root mass are corrected. About repotting vs potting up: I have spent literally thousands of hours digging around in root-balls of trees (let's allow that trees means any woody plant material with tree-like roots) - tropical/subtropical trees, temperate trees collected from the wild and temperate nursery stock. The wild collected trees are a challenge, usually for their lack of roots close to the trunk, and have stories of their own. The nursery stock is probably the closest examples to what most of your trees are like below the soil line, so I'll offer my thoughts for you to consider or discard as you find fitting. I've purchased many trees from nurseries that have been containerized for long periods. Our bonsai club, just this summer, invited a visiting artist to conduct a workshop on mugo pines. The nursery (a huge operation) where we have our meetings happened to have purchased several thousand of the mugos somewhere around 10 - 12 years ago and they had been potted-up into continually larger containers ever since. Why relate these uninteresting snippets? In the cases of material that has been progressively potted-up only, large perennial roots occupied nearly the entire volume of the container, plant vitality was in severe decline, and soil in the original root-ball had become so hard that in some cases a chisel was required to remove it. In plants that are potted-up, rootage becomes entangled. As root diameters increase, portions of roots constrict flow of water and nutrients through other roots, much the same as in the case of girdling or encircling roots on trees grown in-ground. The ratio of fine, feeder roots to more lignified and perennial roots becomes skewed to favor the larger, and practically speaking, useless roots. Initial symptoms of poor root conditions are progressive diminishing of branch extension and reduced vitality. As rootage becomes continually compressed and restricted, branch extension stops and individual branches might die as water/nutrient translocation is further compromised. Foliage quality may not (important to understand) indicate the tree is struggling until the condition is severe, but if you observe your trees carefully, you will find them increasingly unable to cope with stressful conditions - too much/little water, heat, sun, etc. Trees that are operating under conditions of stress that has progressed to strain, will usually be diagnosed in the end as suffering from attack by insects or other bio-agents while the underlying cause goes unnoticed. I want to mention that I draw distinct delineation between simply potting up and repotting. Potting up temporarily offers room for fine rootage to grow and do the necessary work of water/nutrient uptake, but these new roots soon lignify, while rootage in the old root mass continues to grow and become increasingly restrictive. The larger and larger containers required for potting-up & the difficulty in handling them also makes us increasingly reluctant to undertake even potting-up, let alone undertake the task of repotting/root-pruning which grows increasingly difficult with each up-potting. So we are clear on terminology, potting up simply involves moving the plant with its root mass and soil intact, or nearly so, to a larger container and filling in around the root/soil mass with additional soil. Repotting, on the other hand, includes the removal of all or part of the soil and the pruning of roots, with an eye to removing the largest roots, as well as those that would be considered defective. Examples are roots that are dead, those growing back toward the center of the root mass, encircling, girdling or j-hooked roots, and otherwise damaged roots. I often explain the effects of repotting vs potting up like this: Let's rate growth/vitality potential on a scale of 1-10, with 10 being the best. We're going to say that trees in containers can only achieve a growth/vitality rating of 9, due to the somewhat limiting effects of container culture. Lets also imagine that for every year a tree goes w/o repotting or potting up, its measure of growth/vitality slips by 1 number, That is to say you pot a tree and the first year it grows at a level of 9, the next year, an 8, the next year a 7. Lets also imagine we're going to go 3 years between repotting or potting up. Here's what happens to the tree you repot/root prune: year 1: 9 year 2: 8 year 3: 7 repot year 1: 9 year 2: 8 year 3: 7 repot year 1: 9 year 2: 8 year 3: 7 You can see that a full repotting and root pruning returns the plant to its full potential within the limits of other cultural influences for as long as you care to repot/root prune. Looking now at how woody plants respond to only potting up: year 1: 9 year 2: 8 year 3: 7 pot up year 1: 8 year 2: 7 year 3: 6 pot up year 1: 7 year 2: 6 year 3: 5 pot up year 1: 6 year 2: 5 year 3: 4 pot up year 1: 5 year 2: 4 year 3: 3 pot up year 1: 4 year 2: 3 year 3: 2 pot up year 1: 3 year 2: 2 year 3: 1 This is a fairly accurate illustration of the influence tight roots have on a woody plant's growth/vitality. You might think of it for a moment in the context of the longevity of bonsai trees vs the life expectancy of most trees grown as houseplants, the difference between 4 years and 400 years, lying primarily in how the roots are treated. When I said "cut the plant back hard", my intent was a holistic approach that included root work/repotting, selective pruning, and a significant ht reduction, all of which center on a plant that can remain attractive and healthy over the long term. You can read more about maintaining trees over the long term in containers by following the link below. Ball's in your court. Al

I have grown Dresden Doll for three years in a container in the mountains of northern California. I finally put it in the ground this spring. This rose has shown NO disease either in a container or in the ground. (I don't spray) It over-wintered very well in the container without a lot of winter protection. All I did was cluster the roses that were still in pots and surrounded the cluster of pots with bags of oak leaves. As for minis, micro or otherwise, they are roses. The only thing I do differently is use a lighter solution of fertililzer. Smiles, Lyn

The two together don't sound to great but I grew Hot Cocoa when I lived in Fl.(Winter Haven and Port St. Lucie) This is one of those roses that benefits GREATLY when grafted onto fortuniana root stock. I had one own root, one on Dr Huey and then one on fortuniana. The one own root was a pathetic little thing and the one on Dr Huey wasn't much better. The one on fortuniana was a beautiful 5' tall bush covered in fantastic foliage from top to bottom with those uniquely beautiful blooms that covered the plant. I'm pretty sure Nelson Roses (blue pots) carries it. Check with your local nursery. Or use your computer and go to Nelson Roses web site and find the closest nursery that they stock. I know how you feel about Hot Cocoa. The first time I saw it I went "blawh". Then it's unique color grew on me and it became a wonderful rose in my garden. It's one of those colors that you either end up loving or one you call, "liver on a stick".

Palatine is excellent. They offer roses grafted into multiflora rootstock, and tend to specialize in roses that do well in colder climates. I have gotten good roses from Edmunds, but my routine problem has been that they (at least in the past) didn't offer the ability to select your own ship date, and inevitably shipped my bare root roses too late. So if you order from them, be sure to call and insist on a proper ship date.