In my post I did not say that it was completely safe, just that it was better than most "insecticides". I also stated "point attacks", and advised against recklessly spreading Sevin. Yes it will also kill beneficial, but again I said point attacks on the Japanese Beatles, not wholesale broadcast. "use insecticide responsibly" was the phase used. Sevin (carbaryl) does not accumulate in the environment, or in tissues, nor is transmitted up the food chain. All preferred characteristics. I also suggested that caffeine solution could possible be useful. As far as earthworms go, I reviewed again several sites such as the one linked below from Cornell, and earthworm toxicity is not mentioned, but perhaps I missed something. As for myself personally, I spread 20 pounds of "Milky Spore" last fall on our lawn, and may very well do so again this fall. I do not wholesale broadcast any "cides". I use them "sparingly". Those I do use, I research as to their impacts, and attempt to choose wisely and use carefully. I hand pull most weeds from the lawn. I allow many other plant species to stay in our lawn besides the grass. I do nothing to grasshoppers, or most other insects. Our lawn is healthy and green, and composed of a mix of cultivars so as to reduce possible disease pressures, and also a drought resistant species. We have earthworms in our lawn soil, and their numbers are increasing. I use slow release chemical fertilizers, and leave grass clippings lay to increase organic matter, and reduce the need for those chemical fertilizers. Chemically it's all the same. I have lots of ladybugs running around looking for aphids, various wasps hunting in the plants, moths, dragonflies, and bumblebees. All of which are appreciated, and facilitated where possible. The neighbors are constantly asking what I'm doing and why, as they like the results. And so I get to coach them in responsible/careful use, instead of the wholesale broadcast that they do when they take it upon themselves or feel preached to by someone that they see as unrealistic. I do, and will continue to KILL Japanese Beatles. They are NOT native, they are invasive, and they wreak ecological havoc defoliating native plant species that are not adapted to resist them. Native plants who's survival, and competitive ability is impacted by this defoliation. I will not try to simply move them elsewhere to do their damage elsewhere. I want them all dead or at least greatly reduced outside of their native range. There is much more to being responsible than whether you use a "cide" or not. Here is a link that might be useful: Carbaryl

Boxerpups, you're not mean. You're pragmatic. The rule I have is that I generally don't mess with the bugs outside. If they come inside, then they need to DIE. I have an occasional problem with ants in the cat food bowls. When that happens, I do a few things: 1. Get a bit more vigilant about cleaning up the little bits of food they scatter about their placemats. 2. Kill any of the little buggers I find. 3. Spray the floor with a dilute solution of plain dish soap and then wipe it with a paper towel. Also wipe along any route they are taking into the kitchen area. Item 3 is important because they leave a trail. Also, I have to use something non-toxic on surfaces where the cats walk. It takes some time, but the ants eventually go somewhere else.

I have been able to find the diatomaceous earth stocked at Lowes and Ace Hardware and have been considering that route. The products that Dave listed are not at any stores that I can search online here. I have a limited time my knee can allow me to stand on concrete store floors, so I am trying to plan my trip ahead of time. So I have not yet gotten out to buy my ant killer. Frankly, I am surprised they are not taking the liquid borax bait more. Using it outside in those big AntPro dispensers once or twice in the spring usually gets rid of my major problem with the bigger ants. I still am fascinated by these little guys setting up house in my plants. What are they eating, and why do I only see them when I water? If they were out and about in the house, they would, of course, have been a bigger priority for me. They seem not to be, though. I would not know they were here, except for their swarming out of the soil when I water. I am thinking that the ivy plant is going to be a bit hard to: 1. unwind from the plant tower I have it sitting on, and 2. give the ants an escape route if I use a tub of water and the ivy is draped over the edges of the tub. So the tub has to be big enough to contain the plant. It is reassuring that the darned ants will die in soapy water, at least. I had visions of trying to catch and squash ants escaping the moat and getting into the house, since I have to do this in the dead of winter! Instead, can I simply treat the planter with diatomaceous earth as it sits, and wait for the ants to die, or will they sense that the pot has been made a bad place to live and attempt to find a new home? If they try to move the queen or if they have some plucky few who move to another plant to start a new colony and create a new queen, I am no better off. Maybe I should treat all plants, already invaded, or not! But the big question I have, is do I need to do the tub thing in order to catch and kill escapees? Or can they just die in the plant and be done with it? Then there is the question of what all that dead insect matter does to my plant. Is there a problem with that?

Laura, I believe those are potworms in your bin. Baby redworms just have a pale pink color - much as you might expect for such a small redworm. Never seen potworms in my bins before but I do seem to have occasional outbreaks of the red mites. From what I've read the potworms will not harm your worms but might indicate a low (acidic) pH which can be caused by anaerobic conditions. Try adding some dry bedding and powdered eggshells. I dry my shells then grind them into a powder using a small coffee grinder. Usually toss some into my food-scrap pale before even adding to the bin. Great to see the pictures but give us a little more info so readers can give some appropriate advice. eg. feed rates and sources, moisture levels, type of bin etc. Re the red mites, some say they are harmful but I really can't say. Other than removing the items they seem to be feasting on I don't know how to get rid of them. Good luck, Harry