Will trade for any of the following seeds: Early girl tomato, san marzano tomato, cherry tomato, jalapeno early organic, serrano pepper, white onion. Please e-mail me at twofortysx@iwon.com Thanks! - Steve

Thanks, but will not ship internationally. Will just have to source some viable seeds and do it the old fashioned way. If they take a while, it may be a Christmas present then.

I realize that it has been at about 5 years since this post has been put up haha, I had a question on what I should do if my VFT flowers, I do not want it to flower because it makes the plant very weak and most VFT die after flowering. I found this after surfing the web for about an hour yet, I haven't found an answer. Do NOT put your VFT in a dark area with no sunlight, it will die. It will continue trying to do photosynthesis, and furthermore, like I said it will die. Instead, put a sealed bag over it and put it in the fridge over the winter, NOT the freezer. Make sure to keep the soil moist. http://www.sarracenia.com/faq/faq2380.html I have read this entire site and it has helped me in many ways. I hope that if you have any questions it'll help, and also, should I cut the stem before it flowers? :P

I have read about the venus flytraps on a few sites and as far as I have read, it is possible to get a trap to close, you need some kind of tool that you can slide inside the trap, then hit some of the trigger hairs on it, when tapped in rapid succession, the trigger hairs will close the trap. I do not know what kind of nutrients are digested from insects, although some guy put dead skin cells from a bad case of athlete's foot in the trap. The trap digested the skin chunks into gummy, amorphous blobs that looked like soft scabs except it was an oddball experiment and kind of weird/stupid to me. I was wondering if it is possible to use fertilizers in the trap, then trigger it to close and see what happens although I do think the trap will just die. I have used my orchid fertilizer on the underside of trap leaves, applied by cue-tips but just enough to dampen the under side of the leaves. If any fertilizer gets into the medium, it will kill the plants so always be careful and only fertilize the underside of a couple leaves- not all of them all at once and not more than once a month because that will only sustain them if they are too small or ill equipped to catch their own food. It does work if you keep the feedings light and to a minimum so the plants just get what they need for photosynthesis or to aid sugar production from photosynthesis. I grow my carnivorous plants in the dead sphagnum moss, but I will try to get the live moss to grow as well since that is what carnivorous plants grow in for the most part, and that is the reason why they need to supplement their diet with light fertilizer in the form of small vertebrates and invertebrates. The sphagnum moss tends to pull calcium and magnesium from rain water, which leaves nothing but the excess hydrogen as a byproduct. This creates a very acidic environment where most plants that grow in it cannot get absorb nutrients properly as on the ph scale, soil ph needs to be around 5.8-6.2 to absorb the wide range of micro and macro nutrients. When soil ph falls below 5.5, certain nutrients needed by the plants are not absorbed because they are not readily available in more acidic environments. I hope this helps you as it helped me to understand the plant physiology more.