Lady, don't cut it - just let it grow. The most important thing is to let it adjust to the light difference GRADUALLY so it doesn't burn and thus die back. I wouldn't change the pot just now - let it get adjusted to the outdoors, water it well, then buy a pot just FOUR INCHES bigger in diameter. W hen you take it out of the pot it's in now, DON'T disturb the root ball - plant it gently, and it will not even realize it's been repotted. Water it well with some vitamin B water, and it will be happy!

Sounds like mealy bugs or soft scale. You need to get rid of them and make sure any of your other plants aren't infested. I don't use insecticides and rely on strong spraying with a hose (often) and carefully wiping the plants with cotton balls dipped in very diluted rubbing alcohol. There's plenty of insecticides if you decide to go that route. I think it's still too cold in your zone to keep a mandevilla outside. When it's warm enough to go out slowly acclimate it to full sun.

rockyn - The Miracle Grow may have enough Nitrogen in it to stimulate the lush foliage growth,but excessive Nitrogen can cause delayed flowering...A phosphorus based bloom booster can sometimes overide the delayed flowering effects of any excessive Nitrogen levels..the Phosphorus WILL NOT cause excessive foliage growth or delay flowering...Phosphorus is bloom stimulating.. The fragrance in the Ipomoea alba seems to be based on a mixture of the exact strain and the particular environmental conditions that the plant is grown out in i.e.e.g.,a combination of heat and humidity factors combined with soil chemistry particulars can add up to a 'formula' that equates to fragrance or no fragrance..the exact particulars of this formula remain unsolved...try some different strains and see if you can find one that is fragrant for you..a strain that is fragrant for someone in a area close to you,would tend to be fragrant for you also... Hope that helps... TTY,... Ron P.S. you may also want to give the Ipomoea albivenia,the fragrant African Moonvine "Umangfongo" a try... Here is a link that might be useful: Ipomoea albivenia Umangfongo Fragrant African Moonvine

Hi, Maria. Severe root congestion causes what is often called "the poodle or pompon look" the most conspicuous symptoms of which are concentrations of foliage immediately proximal to vine apical meristems/ apices, which are found at branch/ vine/ runner ends, and the function of which is to generate extension growth. Included as additional visual clues, would be markedly slowed extension growth, shorter and shorter internodes as the root congestion progresses, and diminishment of that glow of vitality we all strive to achieve. It doesn't matter much how faithful one might be about trying to keep up with the plant's nutritional and moisture needs as they will not prevent or alleviate the limitations levied by tight roots. There are 2 ways to relieve the stress of tight roots. The most common is by potting up, which I'm sure you're familiar with. It consists of lifting the root/soil mass from pot A and situating it in a somewhat larger bot B, then filling around the bottom and perimeter of the root mass with fresh soil. This is a half measure and provides only a little improvement in vitality, growth rate, and possibly appearance. The reason I identify potting up as a half measure is because it ensures the stress of congested roots remains as a limiting factor interminably, or at least until a pair of human hands gets into the root mass to correct the congestion and the wayward roots it causes. A full repot, OTOH, consists of (usually) bare-rooting the plant, pruning the roots with a focus on removing the largest of roots not attached to the base of the root-to-shoot transition zone and other 'problem' roots (encircling/ girdling/ crossing/ damaged/ j-hooked roots, or roots growing straight up/ down, and roots growing back toward the center of the root mass. A full repot frees up space which fine roots, the ones that do all of the plant's heavy lifting, can colonize, and works to ensure all roots get their share of moisture and nutrients. My experience with mandavilla is limited to a few plants grown as individual specimens and a few included in mixed plantings. Those plants I over-wintered were kept quite dry on the floor of a cool basement in low light. I very quickly learned that if I was to expect the plants to perform well year after year, they would need to be repotted every spring (hibiscus, too). A plant with a badly congested root system is much like a runner with a degenerative muscle or nerve disease in the feet or lower legs. No matter how much Gatorade (s)he drinks or supplemental nutrition bars (s)he eats, the disease is going to limit performance - same with a plant and root congestion. A healthy root system is a prerequisite to any hope for a healthy plant. A normal part of Mandeville's morphology are the preformed root primordia at every node, which places them among the easiest of plants to root. I wouldn't use water to root cuttings as the roots which form in water are structured much differently that roots that form in a solid medium. Water roots are filled with an airy substance (aerenchyma) which allows oxygen essential to root function to diffuse through the specialized root tissue from plant parts above the water line. This can be a problem in transitioning from a liquid to a solid medium because roots which form in water are very brittle, so they break easily, and they are inefficient at absorbing water from a solid medium, so they often die while transitioning between media types. This represents wasted energy because the propagule, now in a solid medium, is often asked to generate a second set of roots when most of its energy reserves will have been spent on the first roots to form, so at a minimum, it increases the likelihood of propagule collapse due to low energy reserves. Too, rooting a cutting is a race to determine whether or not roots can form and make connection with the propagules existing vasculature before fungal or bacterial, or even abiotic pathogens clog the plumbing and make the connection impossible. Anything that increases the time it takes for that connection to occur increases the probability of failure. Al