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Success with DA cuttings

21 years ago

Has anyone tried to strike cuttings of David Austin roses? If so, which ones were successful and how did you do it?

I,ve got a number of one month old Crocus Rose cuttings in a pot at the moment which are still alive, but it's too early to see if they will root successfully.

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Comments (11)

cimmaron
21 years ago
Hi Johnnirose,
I tend to stick bits of prunings into the ground at times.
I have cutting grown Lordly Oberon,The Prioress and William Morris.
These ones strike quite easily.
Leave your cuttings undisturbed until you can see roots coming from the bottom of the pot-then you will know they have taken and you can transplant them.
I want to try some others too and will have a go at Jude the Obscure,Heritage,The Prince,The Squire,Tess of the d'Urbervilles and Prospero(I love the dark red/purpley ones).
All I need to do is get organised(I've been saying that my whole life and it hasn't hapened yet-probably won't at this late stage) :)
Anyway have a go-you have nothing to lose and new plants to gain.
regards
sandie
meryl2
21 years ago
I've succeeded with Graham Thomas (not sure of the spelling and too lazy to go downstairs to check)) and Mayor of Casterbridge.
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I took the last cuttings on May 18th. They are nearly ready for planting but most are destined to become pot tubers. I root the cuttings under florescent lights in our daylight basement. Temperature is about72 degrees under the lights. I do not believe I could be very successful in using my greenhouse as the temperature fluctuates too much, It is the heat that is bad. Skinny sprouts root just fine for me but take longer to grow into plants suitable to put into the garden. Like you, I more than one of the skinny ones into pots to root and divide them into single pots later. No rooting hormones or fertilizer is needed to root dahlias. Fertilizer will cause them to rot. A very weak solution of 20-20-20 greenhouse fertilizer can be applied after they root at about 12 days.
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I think that getting a grafted tree is much better even if it is container grown. I would look for a tree grafted to a rootstock that boasted resistance to wet feet and root rot problems, It is in the winter that many people have their problems with to much/little water. I live in Cincinnati, zone 6, OH and my best 2 trees are in ground planted. My best on put on 60-80 feet of twig growth between October 2014 and May 2015. These trees are under glass in winter
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So far, it's still showing new growth, and today I tried to hold it up in the air from the cutting and it hung just fine, although the pot weighs over 1Kg. I've placed it from day one in a small sides-covered room without a roof, so it gets direct sunlight only at mid-day for 1-2 hours, otherwise it's under indirect bright light during the day, and I would love to know if I should take it out now in direct sunshine more often, or is it too risky? I'm too curious about this experiment, because the more I read online, the more it seems impossible to propagate carob from cuttings, and the adventurous me wants to take it out and observes it for real, but the logical me says it's too bad if it is just rooting and I stun it and kill it by such sudden a shock. One last question, in my experience new "fake" growth of a rootless cutting will always die in a week or so, and if that's true, does a new persistent grown mean the opposite? Does it mean: New Growth = The Cutting Developed Roots Already?
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Very cool! Nice work! I agree that not all forum threads or posts have useful info. But there are really knowledgeable people and sources. I've been much more successful with cuttings after finding solid information (combined with trial and error), but try to weed out the superstitions (ie., "I always do ____ because it worked once.") Roots tend to grow at nodes because there are more undifferentiated cells. They also grow from the cambium, or the green layer below the bark, so scoring the bark at the bottom of the cutting can help, as well as dipping them in rooting hormone. They definitely need warmth, but I'm not so certain about humidity. Figs evolved in a pretty arid climate, and too much humidity only leads to rot and challenges adjusting the fig's new growth to normal levels of humidity. I got 11 cuttings from a forum member and they all rooted and grew leaves pretty quickly. I shielded them from HVAC forced air for the first 2-weeks (a loose plastic cover) while keeping them on top of the furnace - the heat rising off of the furnace definitely helped encourage root growth. About a week or two in, I turned on a 100 watt equivalent LED light and the cuttings started pushing buds. At about 2-3 weeks, I saw roots coming out of the bottom of the container. I planted them in turface fines in a well-draining plastic plant container. The picture is from about 2 weeks ago, 3-4 weeks after planting them. They are just about touching the light bulb now, and they need to be watered every other day. I'm no expert with fig cuttings, this is pretty much my first try. I've gotten decent at keeping cuttings alive in general, but I've found you really need to get to know the species including the best time of year, the best part of the plant to take the cutting from, humidity and heat requirements, etc. Most important, the plant has to be healthy.
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Perthsider
21 years ago
I've had success with Mary Rose cutting. :))
angelsmell
21 years ago
How long does it take from start and then to bloom?
meryl2
21 years ago
Two years, in my experience, but others may have had different outcomes?
Perthsider
21 years ago
I took the cuttings in June 2003, grew them in a pot under a tree before transferring them to the ground in September 2004. First blooms appeared in December 2004.
kevarose
21 years ago
How do you remember to water a pot religiously for 2 years? I am not that reliable?
Perthsider
21 years ago
I would normally 'hide' the pots close to the sprinklers amongst the roses; especially when I go on holidays. :))
Karen_4
21 years ago
I have to go in a minute to pick up my kids, I have only just read this message. I grew two bigish shade houses of cutting grown roses this year, David Austins, Old Fashioneds, Hybrid Teas, and a few Rugosas. I have them in creek sand and keep them well watered during Autum and Winter. I have been panting them out in the garden sinc late Winter to now, a few you loose, but the ones that get going give you great joy when they start shooting and you know they will do well then. They also do very well in the pots, I transfere there into dirt during Spring, but I still have quite a few doing well still in sand. I find the ones I put into dirt in Spring are now transfering well into the garding after some good rain. Got to go now but I will get back here when I can.
janm
21 years ago
Have had success with Golden Celebration, Happy Child and the Squire, I take cuttings all year round,- friends gardens, cemeteries, etc method much the same as Karen, trouble is now finding somewhere to put them! This year am going to concentrate on Alister Clarks roses, sourcing cuttings for them is not easy up here though.
Karen_4
21 years ago
Hi Janm ! I am now putting in two of the longest hedges across from my new little two story steel shed/house. All done with roses come frome my cuttings. It will give us privacy and start my new garden across from my other garden I have been working on the last three years. I lost two young grafted Alister Clark roses this last season ( though not in a real good spot and I negleted them with water a bit when I was caring more for my new Hybrid
Teas) the other three havn't done well eigther. I have a few slowly grown as cuttings from 2003, Ringlet and Nancy Hayward. I got some cuttings of Lorraine Lee this year. I want to start a long rose swag of Alister Clark that are cutting grown, grown in my better soil. I wonder Janm, if there would let you take cuttings at the Alister Clark garden at Bulla, at the Church, if you go there when they are prunning. They let me do it at the Cowra tourist rose garden, when they were pruning. I have wondered about asking them myself, but I live up here in N.S.W. so its a bit of a trip. Especially if some or half of them don't strike.

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