planteny, there might be someone who lives close to you that has cow manure or maybe there is a horse stable near you. but you need to say what area you live so that people will know if they are close or not. lol.

gatormomx2 is correct, an accurate diagnosis - based on info provided. Not a problem in compost, nor on spread of compost on turf. But bacteria are not killed by exposure to air alone. DigDirt is correct. Herbivore manure is not essential to production of quality compost - but studies do indicate that humus content, microbe populations and nutritional value increase when manure is used - other conditions being equal. I use manure - always, when available. Infection from possible pathogens in any herbivore manure is not likely, and while 130+F heat created by thermophyllic fungi certainly will kill pathogens thusly exposed, remember that the exterior of a pile often does not heat sufficiently. So a 2nd heat is important, with all exterior material being turned into the center/bottom of the new (1st turn) pile and the rest of the initial pile thence to exterior (a technique called 'scalping'). That being said, the primary demise of pathogens in a compost pile are due to activity of beneficial bacteria and to a lesser degree, the beneficial fungal populations, which comprise thousands of species in the life-cycle of a finished pile - if microbe populations are properly managed. Mesophyllic (non-heat causing) microbes do most of the decomposition, following initial depletion of sugars and carbohydrates in pile material by thermophyllic fungi. I only tarp my piles when too much rain would be an issue, (leaching of nutrients from the pile) and thereby overflowing 'tea' collection capacity. Tarping a pile (even tightly) will have no adverse effect if the pile is properly constructed, as gas exchange by wind affects only the exterior 3"-5" (which retards effective generation of heat by thermophyllic fungi do to drying conditions). Tarping piles at a commercial composting facility is too expensive a labor-intensive activity without profitable purpose. Compost piles do not need sunlight at all, and the principle reasons that piles 'die' is lack of oxygen, not food. Microbes intake oxygen and 'exhale' CO2. When the pile fills with CO2, microbe populations perish, regardless of the C:N ratio and supply of food. Screening a pile through a section of chain-link fence during turning, provides sufficient internal pile oxygen for at least a month, unless it is overwatered or compacted (which drives out air). When in doubt, turn/screen the pile and water-in each layer (unless a 'soggy' condition is encountered). Dry spots will not readily decompose due to restricted microbe activity.

I think your friend with the good results using cow dung was just BS-ing you. Cow poop, cattle dung, cow chips, steer manure, bull s**t or bovine feces by any other name is a poor fertilizer for a lawn. But if you have a thing for using number 2 on your grass then...Get some Milorganite which is processed human poop from Milwaukee, WI to put on your lawn. But if you want to get your hands on some patties. Cow chips (the old dry stuff) can be tossed in competition every April in Beaver, OK. (I'm not making this up) So if you have yen to handle some ...check out the link below. Just be sure to watch where you step. Here is a link that might be useful: Cow Chip Throwing Contest

Animal manures should be properly composted before using them on your garden. What is the humus level of your soil now? What is the life in your soil like? How many earthworms do you see when digging in the soil? What is the tilth (workability) of your soil? How well does that soil drain? How well does that soil hold moisture? When was the last good, reliable soil test done? Contact the local office of your state universities USDA Cooperative Extension Service about having a good, reliable soil test done so you know what your soils pH is and maybe what you might need to do to correct that. A good, reliable soil test is one tool too use to know what you need to know about your soil. Dig in with these simple soil tests, 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. to see what your soil is like and what you need to do to make it better.