I realize there is SOME transplant shock happening ===>>>> that could be the understatement of the century ... lol .. water deeply.. and let them NEAR dry in between.. and live with the resulting shock .. future life is in the growth points.. and even if the shrub loses every leaf [not advised] .. if those points remain green and viable.. the shrub can make it ... but it aint gunna be pretty .. lol ... i dont understand what kind of TIMELINES you have.. that make planting in the wrong season imperative .... i dont understand.. why you couldnt hold your stock until about 9/1 .. it can be done as you are doing it.. its just that you and the plant are stressin' .... but i also understand ... ya gotta do.. what you gotta do .... if this is being done professionally.. then i presume you have warranties.. and you should follow the landscapers directions ... if you are doing it yourself.. i suggest that you move that timeline FOR PLANTING back about 6 weeks in z5 ... arent there other things that can be done within the plan ... that can be moved up to do now... that do NOT involve planting??? and then move back the planting of large stock .. from the worst 2 months of the year ... good luck ken ps: gardening is more of an ART.. rather than a science.. and forcing yourself into a 'process engineers' time table.. is the crux of your problem .. those hippie gardeners.. are more of.. 'oh whatever.. it will get done.. when it gets done' .. lol .. rather than step 27 part b, subsection 5 dictates planting of shrub #246 at 3:57 pm on 7/17/11 ... whats more important.. the plan.. or the plant??? pps: the difference is between .. what CAN be done.. and what SHOULD be done.. and what should be done.. is to transplant in the PROPER SEASON ... and then it becomes much more stress free .. for both you .. and the plants... ppps: new post if you want ideas how to hold over stock for a month or two ...

you water.. when your plants NEED WATER ... insert finger to second knuckle ... and water when the soil is drying or hot [not all that likely in winter] ... IMHO.. more plants fail from improper watering than anything else ... and too much water i usually worse than too little ... you can rot all the roots right off the plant .... watering is an art.. not a science.. meaning it is NOT something you do by a calender .... be the plant.. water it when it needs water.. ooohhhmmmmm good luck ken

If you can transplant into a little bit bigger pot without disturbing the existing root ball it shouldn't add to the stress on the plant. You don't want to go from a very small pot to a big pot all at once. You need to do it in stages, one pot size up at a time. I converted your Celsius and you're talking about a range of 51 to 66 Fahrenheit. That is not too cold at all for roses. Roses can take temps down to about -2C before suffering any damage. At 11 to 19C they should still be growing, slowly but growing. Put it outside, in dappled shade, and give it a chance to recover. Once it leafs out again gradually move it out into full sunlight. Roses need a lot of sunlight to bloom. Roses also like a lot of water. As long as the pot has good drainage holes so any excess water can drain out of the pot freely don't worry about the drizzle. Do not put any kind of tray under the pot that will hold water in the roots. Roses hate to sit in water and have soggy, wet roots. Don't worry about the fertilizer that's already in the soil. Just do not add any kind of new fertilizer to the rose until it leafs back out and is growing again. Keeping it outside where it will get rained on should help flush that existing fertilizer through the soil quicker anyway.

if the soil around the newly planted things is still thoroughly moist ,can they do without my watering them? ==>>> if the soil is moist.. you should NOT be watering them .. water when needed ... not on a schedule .. do not water again.. until the soil dries down to 2 or 3 inches ... insert finger.. and find out ... fall and winter watering .... is very much less than summer ... mostly because.. for most of us... there simply is NOT enough day heat.. to draw the water out of the soil at depth ... and you didnt list heat as a variable.. so good you asked ... and we check below soil surface ... because that is where the roots are ... and we really dont care if wind dries the first inch or so ... if you dont have mulch ... you really have to insert finger.. or use a hand trowel ... to figure out.. how it works.. in your italy .. in your climate.. in your micro climate ... all we can do.. is highlight the variables... and you have to figure it out ... if.. in my MI ... with ground freeze ... if i plant in october .... and water deeply ... i might not have to water again.. until next may ... [snow melt and heavy mulch] .... but it took me a few years to figure that out ... just like you will ... bottom line.. too much water.. might be worse than too little ... if you rot the roots off.. its dead ... whereas.. if too little water.. many.. many trees... will cope ... soooo... dont kill them.. with too much love ... is how i like to sum it up ... ken