It may yet reward you with a nice plant, keep it in clean water for now till the roots grow past the stem anyway. Try to keep it 70 degrees or higher if you can. Keep checking it. The leaves at their base look healthy. Fred when Rooted the tops in Florida (so long ago now), I cut the top row of fruit off and plunked it down in the water. The fruit always rotted away, you had to change the putrid water every day, which usually was so bad it would start to foam slightly. That is the way you did it back then, of course it was always 80 degrees or higher with 80% humidity. But it worked! The only trouble I ever had was with the dratted squirrels eating chunks out of the ripening fruit! 3 years of waiting and then some scurvy grey squirrel eats the very first spot to ripen and the whole fruit then rots!

Hi Rina. I’m only a couple months behind on this thread ha ha but I really need your guidance. I’ve read your posts on this site for many years. If you ever wonder if anyone is benefiting from your experience wonder no more. I’m a fan. My husband and I moved a few years ago. The only plant we barely had room to move was our large jade. I call her the mothership. :-) I’m shaping the mothership into a tree so I’ve pruned her three times since our move. I was a beginner and she’s healthy so I kept every leaf and stem. Now I’m a beginner + with at least a hundred jades. I have learned SO much (and still do) reading your posts. I took your advice and planted each cutting in its own pot. I also took your advice, per the photo, and left all the bottom leaves intact to promote a thicker trunk. Most of my jades are the same size as those in the photo or a few inches shorter. I pruned most to branch. My dilemma is this … where do I go from here? For example, I allowed the two on the left to get tall before pruning to branch. Should I shorten them so they won’t get top heavy? And the plant on the right. Should I prune the two branches? If so how much? Leave two sets of leaves on each branch correct? Or do nothing? She’s a beauty but I’m afraid she’ll be a top heavy beauty in a few months or years. I now have this unexpected but awesome hobby. I’ve learned a lot the past three years but I have a long way to go. I’d love to learn from you and your experience. Thanks! -Kelly

Whether I do in ground air layering or use rooting pods, as recommended I always am sure to strip off a band of bark at least one inch wide and completely scratch off the underlying cambium layer, no rooting hormone necessary. Funny, but in July I had a rose loving friend over and he brought along a bunch of pods, I explicitly told him how to go about the procedure and not to slack off on doing so and handed him an exacto knife to get going. Mmmm, he was finished in rather a flash and I wondered if had done things correctly. I let those pods be for what must of been two months and upon removing them, zip nothing for roots. David had barely only bothered to scuff up and slice a few cuts in the bark in which merely had healed over. I razzed him a bit that next time he needs to listen! LOL. I develop a few roses of my own and David is a big clivia fan with many exquisite rare varieties, works good for both of us our back and forth trades, good rapport and banter well :)

I'm propagating roses, shrubs, and sun and shade perennials. I root the cuttings in perlite. The "bark fines" are intended to be part of the media for potting up the cuttings after they set roots. I've had an issue with root rot and am contemplating a 5-1-1 type of mix discussed in the thread linked above. I'm trying to understand how fine are "bark fines" supposed to be.