That is a great example of microclimates JoJo! The time spent at the minimum temperature (minutes, hours, days) plays a big role in what temperatures a plant can survive. So does the amount of water in the plant, and in the soil. Dry plants are much more tolerant of cold compared to wet plants. Plants in the ground can survive colder temperatures than plants in pots. I have found most of my plants can tolerate much lower temperatures than typically listed. These lows are brief, just a few hours at most, and it's at least 20 degrees warmer during the day. So plants that are supposed to not go below the mid-thirties F can tolerate minimum temperatures in the high twenties. Agave ferdinand-regis is listed at both +5, and -12 in the list above. The difference between a minimum average temperature, absolute minimum temperature, and Fahrenheit and Celsius scales is often confused. Minimum temperature listings should be regarded with great suspicion, even when coming from a more or less credible source like Desert-Tropicals. It is better to research the plants natural environmental conditions. I would not give much credence to this, or any other so called 'minimum temperature' list. There are too many variables for these to be accurate to any degree. ;) Brad

OK.. first question: plant in orange pot is a Yucca elata planted a bit too shallowly (roots showing), but seems pretty happy that way Pachys have pretty wimpy root systems, and besides, they don't seem to give the least bit concern to having them injured, cut, torn etc., as long as they aren't enormous roots (and never seen one with enormous roots). They are super easy to move (root-wise). Spines and weight are bit more of a problem, but I have a great pair of cactus mitts that allow me to pretty much grab any cactus I want (with the one exception of a Pereskia) and pick it up... then weight and balance are the other problem, and they can break in half easily, so you need some support (like a bag of wadded up newspapers sitting on my shoulder). Then I have to stake them up for a few months until their wimpy root system takes over again and secures the plant. Don't think I've seen too many P namaquanums that didn't have wavy leaves.. .that is their main attraction I think. whenever one of my Pachys freeze, the top dies, rots a bit, and I either ignore it, or cut it off an angle (so water will not sit on the cut surface).. .it heals over and 3/4 of the time at least two heads will reappear... the other 1 time just one appears off to the side giving the plant an offset look. I think if it weren't for damage, most Pachypodiums would never branch. The Pachy in the rock does have a smidgeon of soil in there with it... but it basically lives on moisture from watering and some minute amounts of fertilize I rain down upon it now and then. Probably would be happier with more... yet it blooms every year. P brevicaules can grow up to about 6" tall, but I have never seen one taller My plants are nothing... there are hundreds, if not thousands of Pachys in so Cal MUCH larger in MUCH smaller containers than mine. As I said, they have wimpy roots and don't seem the worse for wear being crammed into dinky pots.. the big problem is keeping them from toppling as they are super top heavy at that point. There is a species of Euphorbia called decaryi, too, though it doesn't look anything like a Pachypodium. There is a Euphorbia pachypoides that does look just like a Pachypoidum, though it has no spines I have seen variegated Pachy lamereis, but I dont' have one. Rainfall does not appear to be a big problem, though this is a constant drought climate and our yearly rainfall is usually less than 20". Problem is most of it comes in just a half dozen or so rainfalls, so we get a lot at a time but then go 6-9 months without a drop. Here's the cactus mitts... hard to find, but not expensive once you do... amazing invention! This is my branching plant out front right after the big freeze Here after I did a bit of surgery Here the following spring Here a few years later in winter showing the unleafy branches I also had this wonderful crested plant (pretty commonly available out here) Here a year and half later, grown to enormous proportions... almost to the point of being so large it might collapse under its own weight... see the 'normal' branch on the right side of it? Here it is in later winter with leaves just starting to come back... this is when one can see the crest the best But freeze 4 months later took this plant down... sigh.

Hi all, I just registered in this forum. I'm so glad to meet the pachy lovers ;). I have 23 sub-species of pachy, of course I have P. brevicaule ;) (i think pachy lovers shall have this one hehehe...), the diameter is 30 cm. I also have the rare ssp such as, P. lealii var lealii, P. namaquanum, P.decaryi, P. Mikea, P.densiflorum x inopinatum, P.Lamerii f. Cristata, etc. Now, to complete my collection I'm still looking for P.Makayense, P.Rutenbergianum var sofiense, P.Menabeum, P.Bicolor, P.Rosulatum var drakeii, P.Succulentum var griquense, P.Densiflorum var brevicalyx, P. densiflorum var. nova. It is difficult to find those ssp in Indonesia cos many nursery here only have P.Lamerii, P. Geayi, P. Lealii var. saundersii, P.Rosulatum var rosulatum. Does anybody know the nursery have them? Inform me please..... ;) Indra Jakarta

Mine goes dormant in the winter and looses its leaves. Since it's winter where you are, I wouldn't worry about the leaves turning yellow/brown and dropping off. As far as the stem getting slightly soft, My young Pachypodiums feel like this when they need water. Since the roots look good, and it's been dry for 3 weeks, I would try giving it a light watering and see if that helps. Here's my horombense this spring, just starting to break dormancy... and here it is now...