zep et. al.: Sorry I didn't get back sooner but with my limited experience, I was a little leary of doing the uninstall of network adapter. However I finally realized that at worst it would only mess up the laptop and not the other devices that are connected and working on the secured network. So: I just uninstalled and rebooted. The adapter did reinstall but I am still not getting a proper connection although things have slightly changed. The secured network got connected, but did not even ask for the security password and simply went to 'validating identity' and simply hung. It didn't even time out. I checked firefox to see if it was expecting a password there, as was the initial case to get connected to the Guest Network (where I am again now), but it couldn't find the server. You may recall, that previously the issue was that the secured net would ask for the password, but find it unacceptable and give 'limited or no connectivity. Is there a way to force the network to ask for the password?? Any other ideas? Eventually, I will probably find a way to get a knowledgeable person out to my house where they could diagnose this. FYI, I am creating another post about security updates that may tangentially be connected to this thread. I apparently successfully installed sp3 but 'security update' keeps wanting to install it AGAIN! I was worried I might not be able to shut down to reload the adapter, but I was able to cancel the update.

I posted a message on a google chat page and got a response from someone who said he could supply a LC7210. I called him and he sent it to me. You probably could find the chips somewhere else but this is what I did. I can send his contact details if anyone needs it. I replaced the memory capacitor in my Yamaha R-9 today and it works great. I want to say thanks for the pictures and all the help. It is located in the same place as the R-8 you mention above. Let me warn you, the replacement part from Yamaha is physically different than the original although the values are the same. The pins are much wider than the original. It is made by Elna 0510 .047fd 5.5 volt. It took some creative bending to get the pins to fit but they finally went. Be careful also, this is a electrolytic capacitor. You must observe polarity when installing the new part. I think I will put the top back on my receiver now while I am still ahead. Anyway I have my old Yamaha CD-3 CD player that needs work.

I think "The Women (and Men) of the Kitchen Table" would be a good show. It would certainly be informative, since there is someone here who can answer any question in the world. And it would certainly be creative and funny--remember the chats we used to have and the antics of Dottie and Marlen.

answer for snookums2 old post: The overhang is measured from the face of the cabinet box/frame. Not from the face of the doors/drawers. So in essence, when you have 24" deep cabinet with 1" thick door mounted to the front of it (including gap between door and box), you would have a counter of 25.5" deep (24 + 1.5 overhang). This gives you .5" overhang past the front of the overlay doors/drawers. When you have an inset cabinet, you have 24" deep cabinet, the door is inset (no doors/drawer faces mounted to the front of the cabinet), so you would have a counter of 24.5" deep (24 + .5 overhang). This gives you .5" overhang past the front of the cabinet and the inset doors/drawers. As always, you can override these dimensions to your preference. You may prefer a 2" overhang with overlay cabinets, or you may prefer 1" overhang with inset cabinets. Barbaray: Yes, you may have 1" on the sides when you don't have a panel. That would be a similar look to having a 1" overhang for inset cabinets. Another idea is to have approx 7-8" overhang on the end of a peninsula or an island. We did that, so we can pull one or two of the stools around to the end for seating when we are sitting at the bar. Makes for better conversation than all 'lined up' at the counter. And, gives more room for the stools along the counter. When not in use, the stools stay all lined up at the counter as they would normally be (not one at the end). I even wish I had done a slightly deeper overhang on the front side of the peninsula. My overhang is 1.25-1.5". I wish I had done 2" overhang in that spot so it was just a little more comfortable when we pull a stool around to that side. It wouldn't be somewhere I would want to sit at to eat (the 7-8" side is do-able for that though), but it would be good for when we are all hanging out there - we would have a few stools on the bar side of the peninsula, one on the end, and me on the front side of the peninsula with the drawer faces.