Hi, sagos are funny about being repotted, don't like their roots messed with a lot, but it does have to be done sometime. You can certainly put it into a bonSai pot, but when you do it, you'll have to gently tease out the bottom of the rootball to loosen it just enough so that the roots, wound tightly in a sort of beehive, will be able to spread out in a wider circle (and soil removed from inside the bottom coils) to make it sit a bit lower to fit into the pot. Do cut back the longest, woody old roots by no more than 1/3 unless they're the sole support of lots of new little feeder roots. Don't make an extreme change in the height, but 1/4-1/3 would be possible (and more at the next repot), and replace the soil to the same place on the seed as it is now - put a layer of soil on the pot bottom (good drain holes please, and no pebbles or shards on the bottom) and when the plant's placed in it and soil piled in, the effect should be of a slight rise in the middle from the top of the soil down to just below the pot's edges, like a slight mound, so some measuring will need to be done for the right pot, taking into acct. a 1/2" layer of soil at the bottom. A coarse loam (no peat) with a good handful of perlite (not vermiculite) and some chopped up sphagnum moss all mixed together would be suitable, plus a small handful of small aquarium gravel for fast drainage. Make sure you fill all little gaps between roots as you go (in thin layers) and gently tamp in between, but don't apply any real pressure.

Can you give us more info on the "full sun to full shade" issue? Full sun would be 6 or more hours of direct sunlight, Partial sun/shade is 3-6 hours of direct sunlight, and full shade is 3 or less hours of direct sunlight per day. Here is a link that might be useful: What Does Full Sun Mean?

Wow, I can't believe a tree that small can bare the size of the fruit. My tree was purchased at a local nursery at 1/2 price (end of season sale) and I have concerns. The bottom of the root ball was a blunt cut off stalk. I thought that was weird. The roots were few and it was planted in what seemed like hard clay. I tried to loosen it without damaging too many roots, so I conditioned my soil and planted it. I hope the roots will be able to grow out. Is this normally the way the rootball of this type of tree would look? I hope they weren't just trying to get rid of it.

I have a David Austin rose called 'Heritage' that I have grown for more than ten years now without spraying with anything at all and it is beautiful. My entire yard and garden are grown organically. I think that whether a rose performs well (after making a good selection, which includes buying a rose that is growing on its own roots, not a grafted rose) it is more important to figure out how to prune the bush than anything else, if you are most concerned with having a solid show of beautiful roses throughout the season. I haven't mastered that skill yet, but 'Heritage' still gives me beautiful roses. Sometimes when I accidentally prune her just right, I am rewarded ten-fold. As an organic gardener, I have also learned this about aphids: You will most likely see some aphids in the spring on the young tender growth of your roses (and other plants). Leave them alone for awhile and don't fret. The aphids hatch out a little earlier than the ladybugs, and are the primary food for the ladybug nymphs. If you kill all the aphids, your ladybugs will have to look elsewhere for food, and you will be depriving your garden of an extremely beneficial predator. Learn to be patient and watch and wait. In just a few days the young ladybugs will come crawling for their first succulent meals, and they will clean up all the aphids. It's a wonder to see. Lesson #2 about ladybugs is that if you sweep your entire yard clean of leaves in the fall, they have nowhere to nest and lay their eggs. They like to lay eggs and raise their young under bushes in leaves and debris. Leave some habitat there for them.