Hi Sheri! If the plant is truly Monstera deliciosa it isn't a Philodendron at all. The genus Monstera contains 33 to 36 or so species depending on the scientific source quoted. There are many scientific names in the genus but almost all have been sunk into synonymy with a much smaller number of accepted species names. It sounds as if you've done your homework already since you know the name of the botanist that originally published the plant or at least his abbreviated name so I'd say you actually have that species. Monstera deliciosa has a number of natural variations and some produce leaves that remain very small for the entire life of the plant. I was recently given a cutting from a 20 year old plant the the largest leaves weren't 12 inches wide. Philodendron is a very large genus with something close to 1000 species divided into three major sections but that is a totally different discussion. The same common name is used for Philodendron bipinnatifidum (P selloum) since it has multi-lobed leaf margins (edges). Even if the plant were P. bipinnatifidum the growth method is basically the same. It sounds as if your growing conditions are good for Monstera deliciosa since it is very tolerant. I doubt you can over water it since it naturally grows along steam banks in southern Mexico and most of Central America. However, the soil mixture may not be good for this species. Monstera require a very fast draining soil so if you have it in Mississippi clay the roots may not be able to freely grow and gather water and nourishment. The other possible cause would be either lack of or over fertilization. Either is just as bad. Most commercial growers prefer something like Osmocote 30-30-30 for large aroids. If the soil is good I'd try the fertilizer first. If the soil has not been amended I would suggest you mix a large quantity of moisture control potting soil with about 20% peat moss and add a BUNCH of cypress mulch. If you can find a bag of cheap orchid bark with charcoal add that as well along with any compost you can find. I know it may be a big job but if you dig the plant up and replant it in this mix it should begin to thrive. My big question is the weather in your area. Although Monstera deliciosa will likely survive, it will be temporarily stunted by extreme cold. The species is not know to do great much north of Orlando so keep that in mind. You can shield it from the cold during any really cold nights but try to keep it from long exposure. You should know this species craves to climb. I have several large specimens in my own atrium and one is now 10 feet up the nearest tree. I've seen them in the tropics and in South Florida at least 50 feet into the canopy and have read of them climbing much higher. Other than that, without photos to examine I'm not sure what other advice to offer.

Moss poles are easiest. And if you rotate your plant that can help because the plant likes to stretch leaves toward a darker area hoping that they're being shaded by a tree thus they're reaching toward the dark because once again they want to start climbing stuff. I know I didn't use a single technical term I'm so sick I'm surprised I can spell at a 5th grade level. 😅 I I'd definitely give that baby a moss pole and I agree with the person above about making sure your stems are where you want them before they harden I mean the petiole. But the same goes for the stem like once a new one props up all noodly I start pushing it around a bit trying to give it room to grow I have two leaves that are like the exact same size and want to occupy the same space it trips me out all the time because you're like whoa I'm seeing double oh wait there ARE two there. Which in reality they both need sun so I've been trying to get them to stay out from under eachother and it wasn't working so I shoved a naked ivy stem down into the pot and had it come up between them. I'm unsure if this has been successful or not I'm stubbornly leaving it there until they're forced to make a decision. Only one shall live..... I really am sick. Good luck 👍

Potting up will eventually give you a more vigorous and substantial plant than water. Pot it up so all the roots are below the soil line.

Azredsand, I used a bark mix I came up with many decades ago, proportions vary a bit depending what I'm potting. Availability of fine ground bark has been inconsistent for many of those years, right now it's from Walmart, 1/4 inch pieces mixed with finer particles. I don't sift any ingredients, my regular recipe is 4 to 6 parts bark, 1 to 2 parts commercial peat based potting soil, and 1 to 3 parts perlite. The mix for the monstera cuttings was approximately 5 bark, 1 commercial peat mix, 2 perlite, nothing sifted. This grows excellent aroids and other plants here in central Florida. Talking soil mixes... I often propagate plants in 1 part commercial peat mix and 1 part (or more) perlte. Back in the 70s I used the peat-lite mixes promoted by Elvin McDonald and invented by agriculture departments of University of California and Cornell University. I preferred the UC which was 1 or 2 parts peat moss, 1 part perlite, 1 part vermiculite. Cornell was 1 part each peat and vermiculite. These are still good mixes, especially for gesneriads and begonias. They are nearly sterile so are good for propagating.