So I should slow my watering of that side to allow them to dry more on vine or pull the plants and hang them in my hot shed to dry further? There are some that still have green pods on them. leave those alone? Thanks for replying.

Which leaves are turning yellow, the young leaves or the older leaves? How long ago were the plants transplanted? The leaves that are yellow, is the yellowing between the veins or in the veins and not in between or all over? Since you did not add fertilizer to the second plot (symptomatic plot) then you probably have a N deficiency, just fertilize and you should be fine. I would also get some gympsum or calcitic lime and add that as well. The gypsum is very soluble in water and can supply Ca to the plant fast whereas the calcitic lime is relatively insoluble and will be slowly available to the plant but will offset any of the acidity that the compost has added. If you do a pH test on your own you are only going to get half of the story, so be weary of the results. The pH of the soil is affected by many things, the plant, the soil type and the organic matter. The plant and the organic matter can be measured the simple way but the soil part you need to do something different (namely an exchange) in order to get the value. The soil clay acts in the same way as your water softener, in that it has the capacity to hold a variety of positively charged ions (Ca, Mg, K, H, Na, NH4)and will exchange those with the soil solution thus making them available to the plant. themedicinalpepper.com Here is a link that might be useful: The Medicinal Pepper

Do you water the pots enough to flush any buildup of salt out of the pots? Adding fertilizer to pots is a bit like adding salt (Melbourne water by itself is fantastic)

The label should tell you if you need to wait a certain number of days to harvest. IIRC, Daconil has no wait time to harvest when used on tomatoes. It would be almost impossible to avoid spraying your fruit if you're spraying correctly. Remember that you have to spray all stems, foliage (both top and underside), and preferably also all developing fruit as well. If you can do that and avoid getting anything on mature fruit, you are very talented.