Thanks for all of the suggestions and help identifying these trees. I have only lived here a little over a year and am finding I have .56 acres of "where do I start". Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Per request here are twigs from the first two plants. Ignore the numbers and letters written on the paper. I lost a brain cell somewhere in the process and messed them up. This first photo is from the mature tree: The next two are from a juvenile tree: The smaller twig in this photo is from a juvenile tree. The larger from the mature tree. I think I have two more questions: regarding these cherry/elm trees. The juveniles are popping up on the opposite end of the yard away from the house. Is there any particular reason why I shouldn't let them just grow? WIth the exception of a large flower bed in the middle of the yard and all the trees jammed in at the border of the property my yard is pretty much a large expanse of lawn. It would be nice to have a few more trees! And as far as the poplars go, there is a dirt road that comes up beside one side of my house. I'm thinking these might be a good privacy screen for that side of the yard. How well do they transplant? Thanks so much!

I'm thinking that the first tree is some sort of Locust ("Twisty Baby" or something like that???). I've seen it being sold at Farmington Gardens. The second looks like the Golden Curls Willow. I have one in my yard.

It's rubra. I have that leaf etched in my mind. Agree with Embothrium.... last years acorn caps on the ground or full acorns in combination with leaf is key to identification for most folks. The most serious of folks and experts know the buds, too. Dax

Billy, You are a fountain of information. Thanks for all the references. The "15 fig count/gallon pot size," guideline is a very good one. Here is what I do to try to keep those robust trees from going over that limit, thus producing smaller, later ripening figs: I prune my trees after leaf fall and before they are brought in for their winter sleep in cold storage, inside. I try to keep in mind that each 2-3 leaf scar at the outermost tip of most of the husky last year's growths will sprout new growth in spring. Each of these new growth stems will produce 5-6 figs when pinched at their 6th. leaf stage of growth. Also, if the pinched tip sprouts a stem or two after being pinched, a few more figs will form on them. which figs will usually be smallish and/or ripen too late, so I don't count them in my calculations. They may ripen and be pretty good, so are a bonus, but still are not factored into the equation. When brought out in spring each fig is slipped out of its pot on a sturdy outside bench to check if it's spring for root pruning or not. Root pruning usually is an every 2-3 year event. So, it's top pruning in fall and, root pruning (when needed), in spring, After all the tree's root/repotting care is finished, it is set out where it will grow all summer. I prune in fall so it's easier to move the tree around without breaking branches. I don't like to mess with root pruning in fall so as not to encourage root rot during winter storage. Also, there's enough work in pruning, training, and lugging inside in the fall. When the spring sprouts are about 2" long I select the best spaced, biggest, healthiest, etc. , ones, counting 3 per gallon of the corresponding pot size, and pinch off all the others where they emerged from last year's stem. 3 sprouts means 15 figs, 5 each sprout. This system works very well for me. Moses