Calville Blanc d'Hiver - Both look like takes Calville Blanc d'Hiver #2 - Both look like takes Reine des Reinettes - Both look like takes Reine des Reinettes #2 - I did an awful job on this one, I didnt make the wedge long enough on one, and it ruined both. Freyberg - Both look like takes Belle de Boskoop, new central leader - No idea why these are so slow, this is the only water spout on the tree, and a spent an extra amount of time on these to get them just right, what gives? May have to regraft, will wait. Belle de Boskoop - Another slow one, same variety, on the LARGEST branch on the tree. Looks like 1 took and 1 didnt. Freyberg #2 - Scott, these are yours, looks like one may have taken, slow to warm. Bud closest to the camera is starting to break, but has slowed in recent days. Touched the wood, and its in there with good tension, didnt move it.

It sort of sounds like you are trying to slip a scion into the bark of an untrimmed limb or trunk...like adding a brach? I forget the name of that graft but it is not very common in apple and a bit tricky to do. Not a graft I would suggest for your initial attempts. Also you can't use a "small branch", just a small piece of a small branch (the scion) and it should only have 1-3 budds on it. That approach is more common with just inserting one bud removed off a scion into the T cut, and that usually gets done in summer (budding) If that is what you trying, you will need to modify the scion more as Konrad suggests, scraping or shaving the sides, and also likely cutting a another slope on the opposite side of the scion to assure that the cambiums not only touch but actually have some degree of overlap. There are many many types of grafts. My first suggestion would be to do an image search for fruit tree grafting, The most common are : whip and tounge, cleft, and bark grafts with each having it's own variations. But these common basic grafts are much easier to learn with. Any graft that requires you to separate or lift the bark (only some do) needs to be done when the bark is "slipping". The bark and the bulk of the cambium will lift off the true wood below. Work fast,make smooth cuts, use clean sharp tools, avoid touching the cambium with your fingers. Seal well and tightly when done.

It is very difficult to find budders and very expensive if you can. Also try convincing the US Government you need to a temporary work permit to bring in skilled budders from out of the country! Most budded crops grown in the field are also two year old plus crops. Own root crops in pots are one year old for a gallon plant or larger. For small nurseries the savings of a year old crop over a two year old crop can be the difference between staying in business and bankruptcy. Personally I think the debate over which is better is answered by the simple question, "what is best for you, in your climate and for the types of roses you like to grow?" The answer can be found by talking to other like rose lovers in your area. I like own root for my garden, but it would be presumptuous of me to try to convince someone up north who prefers grafted that own-root is better because I have never grown roses in their climate. And vice versa of course also holds true. ItÂs all personal folks! And isnÂt it great that you have a choice. Paul

Well, though not all that old - I have them going on 30 years since purchase and my grandparents also grew roses- moving bushes from home to home over approx 50 of their 65 yrs being married. I don’t believe there is an age limit. The big issue is grafted roses require a little more attention to details when planting. Own root once they are old enough to plant - not necessarily when you get them, can just be planted with no thought. But all grafted roses, you have to make sure the bud union is well buried or you will get suckers. I have never had an issue because - well, I make sure the bud union is buried 3-4” and to protect from cold also - absolute minimum of 2-3” in my zone 7 east coast garden. In my early years of growing roses, our winters were colder and we got more snow and I hilled teas, shrubs, etc and wrapped in burlap/stuffed with pine-tags . Climbers were laid over and covered in soil or well hilled, wrapped and stuffed. And of course after spring frosts, everything has to be unhilled and set right again. However, our winters have warmed so much it isn’t as necessary if you select the right rose for the right location in the garden and hardiness zone. Dr Huey is a very common used rootstock - bred in 1914 and and is extremely vigorous though not particularly fungal resistant but that isn’t of concern when using the rootstock. It is a hybrid of the Wichurana lines named after the German botanist Max Ernst Wichura and produced sometime in the mid 1800s. It is a beautiful rose on its own and they are seen across the country in old graveyards, estates and plantations blooming without any assistance with lots of showy dark red blooms. It’s main down fall is its propensity to black spot but yet it seems to overcome that and come back each year. The strong marketing push to own root is one of a labor shortage, lack of skilled budders, and greed. If you can selling a tiny cutting that at the very most is 32 weeks old (from a grower who gives a 5 year warranty) and the rest are at best 16-20 weeks (with little to no warranty) compared to full 2 year olds that have had a full year in the field and then another year+ in the field with its graft —- and sell for the same price - which do you think corporations will demand are grown to help their bottom lines? Do not be afraid of well grown, healthy, well budded/grafted roses. Grafting has been the primary method of rose production which began in the late 1800s with a beautiful but week growing hybrid tea called LaFrance. Grafting it allowed for a much stronger growing plant and it has survived to this day and you can still purchase it. Many of the beautiful old roses full of fragrance just weren’t all that strong on their own roots. And today they are own rooting roses with little to no warranty that may not last you a year or two. No one has ever tested many of these roses - because everything was grafted and the couple of under-stocks were strong so no issue would be expected. Unless you want a particular rose that you can only find as own root, and if you are a beginner gardener and have just started with roses — look for grafted roses from an old established company like Jackson Perkins or go with David Austin who offers both in various types but they offer 5 year warranties.