Ginkgo leaves have dichotomous venation, each vein divides into two near the leaf margin. All veins originate at the point where the leaf is attached to the petiole. Pretty distinctive in identifying them, in addition to their fan-shaped leaf.

thundergoat, Do nothing now outside of thoroughly watering it frequently (probable at least daily), and try to keep it out of the sun. In the fall after leaf drop, you will want to wash all of the soil away from the roots until they are bare (bare root), at which time immediately while the roots are wet set about uncoiling ANY roots that are circling around the tree, so that when finished the roots point away from the trunk. There may be some roots that this will not be possible to do. With those uncoil them as much as possible, and then prune off the rest with sharp pruning shears. You may want to use toothpicks or something to hold roots in place (non-circling) while you back fill the whole that the tree is going into. Be sure to have the whole dug before you start. The reason for doing this is that as the tree grows, the trunk will grow, and the roots will grow. Over time if roots are left circling, then as everything grows, these circling roots will begin to strangle the tree, so that it's entirely possible to lose a tree from planting errors 10 or more years later. You will need to look at proper planting instructions so that you know how to handle that. Most people think dig a whole, stick in tree, bury with dirt. There's a bit more to it than that, and instructions have been linked in many threads recently. After planting, water when the soil begins to feel dry to the finger test, and be sure not to neglect it. If you have to put a calendar reminder to check, then do so. The tree likely will not grow much for a couple years, but then grow normally from there. I know this may sound complex and scary, but it's really not. You just have to learn what to watch for, and how to correct problems so that your tree will be happy, and you will be happy. You really have a pretty nice tree, but it's a nice tree that will require some TLC to begin with, due to neglect before it came to live with you. *******IMPORTANT********** DO NOT let the roots dry out at any time, even a little bit during this process. You don't want to stand them in water, but keep them moist. I keep a misting bottle nearby, and frequently mist the roots while working on them. Once you start the process, don't stop until problems are corrected and the tree is properly planted and watered. Feel free to ask questions, and/or start new threads. There are lots of people that will happily help you. Arktrees

Splaker, I suspect you'd get more responses if you started a new thread. Anyhow, I have found Korean Firs to be hardy in z4 WI, including Silberlocke. Mine grows near a large native White Pine on a peninsula-shaped spit of ground surrounded by asphalt and concrete. While researching siting this plant, I read in various articles that it tolerated moderate shade. It's doing fine, but I think it would like a bit more sun. It came through this past winter-from-hell looking good and is producing a nice crop of cones. Now I'm hoping we don't get a late frost that will wipe them out, which is what happened a couple years back.

There is a berm there but heavy clay soil, so this tree needs to be drought tolerant and clay tolerant. ==>>> no matter what you plant ... no tree will be drought tolerant for 2 to 5 years ... the bigger the transplant.. the longer the time ... at the link ... read about planting in clay .... there are extremely few trees that cant cope with such ... its when we improperly transplant into it.. or water improperly.. when most failure occur .... have you ever had a soil test done.. to find out if your clay lacks anything besides drainage?.. a quick call to your COUNTY extension office.. might get you a fast general answer .... and how to have a soil test done ... and based on that ... the world is your oyster.. as to choosing options .... finally.. there is little instant gratification with trees ... at 41 ... lol ... you really do have a lot of time to go smaller ... personally.. i would never go with a 2 inch caliper tree ... in my case .. due to budget .... but if you have it.. go for it ... but even then.. i might go with only a 1 inch ... the smaller the transplant.. the faster it gets settled.. ESTABLISHED.. and the faster it will grow to specs ... and once there.. tree do grow rather fast ... i planted 6 foot bare root oaks ... and 15 years later.. they are going on 30 to 40 feet ... and that would only put you at 56 ... not even near the grave.. lol ... ken ps: z5 is half the US .. give us a big city name and state ... just in case it matters https://sites.google.com/site/tnarboretum/Home/planting-a-tree-or-shrub