Oh, dear, I just found this thread and I hope I'm in time to plead for a reprieve for Martha Gonzales! Here's my story: I have Martha Gonzales, Mrs. Dudley Cross, Belinda's Dream, an unknown apricot/cream Austin that came with the house, and Francis Dubrieul planted together. Francis got blackspot and dropped every leaf, with the Austin and (gasp!) Martha G. following suit almost immediately. MDC got a few spotted leaves on the side next to the defoliated plants, but on the opposite side she remained disease free! BD, on the other side, lost a few lower leaves but she's already regrown. But here's the kicker: I have a couple of other Martha G.s across the yard from the naked one, and they're both fine! Furthermore, my second MDC, about 15 feet away from the diseased roses, has no trace of disease. Another bed across the way has SDLM, SDSA, original Gruss, and Felicia. Gruss usually loses half his leaves, but he and all his bedmates have all their leaves. It seems to me that whatever Francis had this year was something abnormally bad that his neighboring roses, normally resistant, couldn't cope with. But the good news was that it spread only to immediate neighbors but went no further. Now Martha and UNK Austin are growing new leaves, but I think I have to get rid of Francis. He's still nothing but sticks.

I recently developed some sort of leak in my washer, which caused a lot of puddling in the pan--twice. I usually run the washer at the "auto" setting, so that should set the water level appropriately, right? The only recent situation that might have caused the problem is that I left some tissues in a pocket and there was a LOT of lint. I wiped as much as I could out of the tub after removing the clothes, but I have no idea if there is some sort of lint screen. The manual hints that there is a trap, but the lint gets washed out in the rinse. My washer is in a tiny space on the second floor of my house, and it's way too heavy for me to move it to get to the back. Are there any troubleshooting steps I can take at this point other than moving the machine? I'm assuming I shouldn't try doing a wash at this point?

We have both the GW11 Washer (good choice and ok) and my wife insisted she wanted a new dryer to go with it (the old dryer did need a new timer but ok). I was no keen on the DGGX1 dryer due to its complicated machinations of side winder drum and door closer setup. What killed the original washer was lint build up as my wife does some fabric work and gets a load of that at the time and the rep said the GW11 was designed to avoid that, it has 100% good with that, never another lint problem. We had it 10 years and it started to make god awful squeals. After a lot of trouble shooting (there is a diagnostics for that) the pump was bad. Replacing the pump is a bit of a pain as you have to lay it on its side but otherwise easy as you release a tap and it pops out. Yes I tested the old pump and it was awful (I do a lot of mechanic building work so that is not new) One thing that fooled me was not reading carefully that the washer does a recycle water rinse soap thing and the pump would act up during that, so knowing the sequence and how it works points to the pump despite most washers using just fill water. However, in the course of making sure all was clean and ok I shined a light up the drain tube and saw a flapper. I am thinking its the diverter valve and in the wrong position but its not quite where the valve would be and its bright shiny silver, hmm, the size of a dime>? Yes a dime and plug of stuff. so you darned well better look or you can replace the pump and still have an issue. I pulled the other hose and made sure it was clean too. AND YES A SMALL OBJECGT CAN SOMEHOW GET INTO THERE SO DON'T BELIVE THE ONE POST, AT LEAST LOOK!!!!!!! Last they want you to splice in a fuse to the main board to protect it, they missed that. Its a dicey operation as the wires on the machine are tiny and the fuse wire is huge. Poor kit. I cut it in where there was a lot of room to res-plice if the splice went bad, they say right by the plug, if you do and you fray the wires you have no wire left to work with. Top loader is No Longer Made I believe, so only repair for old ones. As for the DGGX top loader, it worked ok until it got a squeeek/squak. Wisdom was the right side bearing, got it and nada, it was fine (typically we do 3 loads a week so we are not heavy users). What I found was the tensioner was making noise, I found if I moved it to one side it quit, so I wired it over a bit and ok for some time. 11 years into it and suddenly it goes nuts, squeeling, squalling and impossible. So I did the check of both ends, cleaned the right bearing, made sure the stub shaft was ok, cleaned the other end up and it worked ok for a week. the first screen assembly on the left end comes out easy as its a obvious Phillips screw and pops off. The assembly that holds the lint filter is a bugger as the screw is in the bottom and its a combo hex and Phillips type screw and its in there hard. Better off if you can get a thin wall socket in there (I got it out with Phillips but it better be a GOOD number two and you better be strong. Hex size is 7mm and not sure even a slim line socked will go in the hole. If not it might be worth drilling it larger if the screw will not move with a number 2 Phillips. the lint screen also had huge holes torn in it and no idea how or why, but that's 70 some bucks too. I think this needs to be checked about once every 4 years. then worse than even. Time to disassemble and look at that tensioner. Its fairly easy but you do need to know the steps and screw locations. This is a good guide. http://www.frontloadbearings.com/fisher-paykel-degx1-dggx1-dryer/#.VVa0DGzTmwV More or less you lift the lid, pull it straight up and it comes off. Remove the rubber plug left and right front and two screws come out (Phillips 2) and you lift the top and lay it back. At that point you need to unplug the connector that connects the display to the controller as the whole assembly will roll forward soon. then two screws on the front (smaller ones), spread the side and the front cover comes up a bit and comes off (ground connection also that needs to be put back. Once done then the whole drum rolls out and you can get to the tensioner (screwdriver to pry it off as there is an opening and pry against a bar. Our had one that was totally trashed with huge cleaned and uneven wear. Lubed and back together until parts get here. It was worth taking the front cover off as huge amounts of lint in the bottom including some that was blocking gas flow tube and covering up the intake about 25%. Not exactly maint free but reasonably done if you are handy. so line screen every 4 years inspect and clean it up at the same time and should be good. I don't know about the pulleys, why one is bad and one good when they both tension is mystery, kit comes with two and you may wind up if you have it long enough putting the second one on in the same place if it has more thrust or whatever took it out and it starting making noise 6-8 years in so it went quick for pretty light use.

The air gap, of course, takes the place of routing the hoses on a high loop. The Dual Air Gap Kit may solve your backflow problem if the way the two hoses are connected to the air gap is the source of the issue. I don't know how a typical air gap is constructed internally, no experience since they're not required here. The Dual may have a baffle between the two hose connections to keep the flow separate. Yours presumably having one incoming connection, your installer may have used the included Y-adapter to connect the two hoses, and it doesn't itself provide sufficient separation of the flow. Just speculating from afar without access to directly view the situation.