I have the same type of soil. CLAY! What I did, that worked well for me, was to loosen up the soil with a shovel. Then I dumped compost and bags of garden soil over top of the area. I used the shovel to mix it up a bit. Every fall I cover the area with leaves that decompose and really improve the texture. Whenever I plant now, I toss in more compost if I have it or Garden Soil from a bag. It keeps getting better and better. I don't think you'll need to haul away any soil. Just bring add some good stuff to what you have. Kim Here is a link that might be useful: My gardens

Are you under a firm deadline, other than convenience in not living with and in a work site any longer than necessary? Are you OK with setting up a minimalist kitchen function for the duration? (keep and move old fridge to another room, get some hotplates or portable induction cookers - at least one maybe two, MW, biggish toaster oven, rice cooker and washing your dishes in a PR sink - using a counter made of plywood on sawhorses?) Could you get through the holidays with such a set-up? It really depends on your tolerance for camping out in your own house and how frustrating you will find juggling children and tradesman (many of the same management/coping skills apply, but don't try shoving a pacifier at the electrician). Whatever time frame you come up with, imagine how it would be if it took exactly twice as long. Would that throw larger family plans into a tailspin? Because that very well may come to pass. Still, GCing one project, and your own at that where your won't have trouble communicating your ideas because they will all be in your own brain, seems like it is possible. Are your kids and DH the flexible, roll-with-it types? Or does change destabilize them? What does your Mama think? My own Mother GC'd the building of her house when she was in her 60's. I know I spent a lot of time on the phone with her as she vented about the days' progress (or lack thereof). I thought it was great that she did it, but I think if I had had doubts my doubts would have discouraged her and made it harder. Also, get several more bids before you give up. The Official Kitchen Industry is awash in price gouging in some places because it is an emotional purchase, dealing with aspirations, expensive equipment most people only buy occasionally and mysterious systems (water, electricty and drains), etc. Also, try breaking it apart into sequential episodes to see if you can make it work that way. HTH L.

Hibiscus Seed Capsules Seed saving is a lot of fun and it's easy to do! This is how I do it....and these are general and universal instructions. Mother Nature is pretty easy to figure out if we keep with the idea that SHE needs to keep it simple too. Take a good look at a flower. When the flower fades leave it where it is, do not remove it. Eventually at the base of the flower there will be some swelling. This is where the seeds are forming. Do keep the petals where they are and let them fall naturally...I don't touch it or bother it, I just leave it be. The base of the flower will swell even more and soon you'll notice that the flower stem and the swollen base are turning a papery-brown. This is a very good indication that the seeds are almost fully ripe....in effect the plant has achieved it's goal of reproduction for that flower...it has produced viable seeds and no longer needs to expend energy to keep it alive, so it doesn't sends it's sugars and water up to the stem anymore. That's why it's turning papery-brown. It's no longer being supplied with nutrients and so it's dying back. The drying action will continue and as the swollen pod continues to dry you will see it start to open....some pods will open in a starry design, plants like poppies create a ridge of tiny little circles near the top of the pod....they make themselves into something like a little "salt-shaker" (sorta...but you could imagine it.) All flower pods will open in some manner when the seeds are ripe....it's so they can disperse their seeds. When you see that the pods and stems are both brownish in color, AND you notice that the pods are starting to open you can then collect the pods. I place the pods on an open plate or in open bowls in a safe place where they won't be disturbed and let them continue to dry naturally for another week or two. Then I remove the seeds from them. To assure that the seeds are thoroughly dry I let them dry on an open plate for a few more days...I even will stir them every now and then to make sure the bottom layers will get a chance to dry too. Storing the dried seeds is easy. I use paper envelopes. I make my own with my printer, but you could use coin envelopes or even mailing envelopes will do fine too. Label them so you know what's inside. Store them where they'll be away from heat or direct sunlight. I use cardboard file boxes to keep my seeds in and those do just fine. Another good place to keep them is in your dining room drawers. Those are dark places and your dining room is sure to be safe from extreme fluctuations in temperature. Good luck with your seed saving! Trudi

Often when planning a DIY project, careful consideration is given to the tools, equipment, and supplies required, as well as the best route to take to achieve a certain goal. However, just as much thought should be put into safe working practices. This is particularly true when working with and around the home's electrical system. Regardless of the type of project, safe working practices are essential for everyone to be able to enjoy the fruits of your labors. Keep in mind that no list of safe practices is all-inclusive as every project can present its own, unique, hazards. While using the following list as a starting point, take the time to evaluate the project and identify any other potential hazards that may affect you or others in the area. Also, if unexpected conditions arise or if you are unsure how to proceed, take a moment to step back and re-evaluate the situation. Either take the time to find the right answers or call someone qualified to help you. ------------------------------------- Treat all circuits like they are hot until you can prove otherwise. Always turn off the electricity when you work on a circuit or device. Buy a reliable device to test for voltage. Use it on a known hot circuit to make sure it is functioning properly before you begin work. Test after you turn the circuit off, test again before touching any wires or device parts, and test again if you leave the area for a few minutes. After your voltage test tells you wires - all wires, not just 'hots' - are dead, try shorting them to ground with a big screwdriver. Now you can touch. If you must have the electricity on to check something after you remove it from a box or enclosure, turn the electricity off while you remove it. If you aren't in sight of the disconnect for the circuit you are working on, you should notify everyone in the area of your intentions before beginning work. Also, a lock should be applied to the breaker or panel cover after you have de-energized the circuit. If this is not possible, you should at least "tag it" so that others will not re-energize the circuit you are working on. Some suggestions include a large explanatory sign on the panel cover and breaker, as well as putting a piece of red tape across the breaker in the OFF position. Wear rubber soled shoes when working around electricity. Additional protection can be had with ceramic-toed (not steel) boots and standing on a rubber "welcome mat". If you aren't using one of your hands for something while testing or working on a circuit, the best place for it is in your pocket. As much as you can, when working around electricity, stay away from things that can ground you, such as metal pipes, sinks, and water. GFCI's (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters) should not be bypassed or removed any time they are installed on power tools, portable appliances, and other equipment. Removing these devices places the user and possibly others at the risk of injury or death. Also, when using electrical equipment outdoors or in wet locations, power should be obtained from a GFCI protected receptacle. If one is not available, an inline cord mounted GFCI unit should be used. Work alert! When you are tired you make mistakes. If you are tired, rest. Coffee and caffeine are not substitutes. If it seems too much trouble to tuck in your shirt just now, you are probably too tired to work safely. Work neatly. Keep your clothes tucked in. Keep track of your tools. Keep your work area around your feet clear of tools and trash. Demand that others do not clutter your space. Do neat work and later it will be easier to test and track. Have a buddy system. Do not work in an attic or other confined, twisty space without someone working with you who can call for help. Even if working in a comfortable, upright situation, make sure that someone always knows where you are. Wear eye protection. Especially when using power tools, striking tools, and working around energized equipment. Work safely on ladders by not overextending yourself. The adage "keep your belt buckle between the ladder rails" is a good one to follow. Have adequate lighting. Whether it is flashlights or worklights and extension cords, make sure you have everything on hand before you begin working. Inspect your tools and equipment before use. You should always check electrical devices, tools, cords and ladders for signs of defects or damage before using them. ------------------------ A big Thank You to ItsUncleBill for getting this list started and also to Harmon_Killebrew, Sangan, Measure_twice, and Keast for their help.