"Any ideas on maybe a three season plant that could be used to add some structure to the beds" Pat_tea, I don't know what zone you are in but it's likely warmer than my zone 3. I have a curved path through a perennial bed and have used Dusty Miller with Munstead Lavender behind and between on one side of the path and the Dusty Miller with perennial flax on the other side. I'd have used all lavender but the flax is hardier and I may have to replace all the lavender with flax later if some don't survive the winter. I've been quite pleased with this and would post pics except I've been too busy gardening this year to deal with the pics I've taken. The Dusty Miller is not successfully perennial here but certainly looks very good for 3 seasons. Might be perennial in your zone. Perennial flax is really only 2 seasons as needs deadheading in August otherwise one has a million of them. Lavender is still looking reasonably good here and I've been lucky with it as it's not reliably hardy in this zone. Another plant I like along pathways is Walkers Low Catmint. I first saw this on Freda's blog and loved it. See the link below and other catmint links there. I've propagated my WL but still don't have enough plants to edge the path. Will take more slips in the spring to make more plants and eventually may do the same as Freda. OK, back to the original question as to how to place plants evenly on both sides. What I did was to measure to find the center of each side of the path. My path curves so these are not equal measurements. Then I found the middle point of each side and marked it. Then I took a stake which was approximately the distance I wanted the plants spaced which was *about* 18" and marked out from the center. I then fiddled with it until it worked out fairly well at each end. I'm not a perfectionist in my garden so close enough WAS close enough. This particular perennial bed is somewhat raised from the lawn so I couldn't go too close to the end of the path but IMO it looks good. Hope that helps. :) Here is a link that might be useful: Have I Told You Lately That I Love Catmint?

I have had some bare-root iris drying out in a cool room for about 3 weeks now (after their bleach bath) while I make a new bed for them....... Just went to check on them and on one iris, the middle fan has shot up about 4 inches. That's bare-root. Laying on the carpet. No dirt or water in site. Didn't realize they could do that...

I don't think it was rude when I went around and jotted down what everyone was selling their stuff for when I first started at my small market. I told the other vendors what I was doing and they were all very helpful. Some explained how they determined what their prices would be: a unique heirloom tomato was priced more than a plan old hybrid slicer because heirlooms are harder to grow using organic methods; because they put in too many rows of eggplant and there wasn't as big a market for them than they thought there would be; because they had the best tasting melon that they ever grew before; etc. I had previously gone to the local grocery stores and farm stands and made a list so I could compare their prices for both organic and not. Local and fresh bring the prices up at markets, especially better tasting, freshly picked, and grown nearby/not trucked in - be sure to stress these points to your customers. Do a little homework and keep good notes for next year. I did not see any booth hopping to compare prices and I think it is because fresh produce is bought on impulse. I would safely bet that most people do not know what they paid for a cucumber in the grocery store last week. Remember it is illegal for anyone to ORDER you to price your stuff at a certain amount. It is also illegal for vendors to agree on minimum and maximum prices, or to price stuff higher during disaster or perceived shortage events. There probably is a state law covering price gouging and price fixing where you live, if not already covered by federal law. Remember that only you can decide what price you put on your stuff and that can be anything you want it to be. Nancy the nancedar Here is a link that might be useful: Definition of Price Fixing

It's what you feel is a good deal that counts when buying. Selling is a different issue, and it takes time. We sold vintage for years, and Ebay was the WORST resource EVER for uninformed buyers and sellers. What seems like a minor difference can be a major one when it comes to price (well, it looks *almost* like mine). Additionally, it seems that people assume everyone else listing the widget knows what they're doing, when they might just be flying blind too. The only good comparisions on Ebay are exactly the same as your item with BIDS-buy it nows and listings with 0 bids mean ziltch. And archived listings from more than even a few months ago might or might not be a good resource, as certain items ebb and flow like the tide (for a while, you couldn't touch a Duaflex camera, they were HOT for TTV photography, I think that's died down now-we don't sell vintage anymore-no space-so I haven't kept up on the trends). Then you've got sellers that inheritated something they were always told was "worth a lot of money". Well, maybe it was, once. And now...you can give it away, maybe (like those console radio/record players or sets of china, except certain patterns). Also, it depends on your location. We live in NYS. Where we live, I could sell something...say...an old wooden crate for $10, whereas it might sell for $30 in NYC. Vintage prices here are WAYY lower than there.