>>> Our AC died two days ago. I am replacing the AC unit this weekend. I have 3.5 TON unit. The best quote I got is $2200 for new 3.5 TON unit (converting to 410a), new coil, new pipes (from teh coil to the unit), some duct work, 5 years warranty on the unit and 2 on labor.... Mick: Where do you live? $2200 for a 3.5t unit is a decent price for a low-end system. What brand and model # did they quote? It's hard to compare prices unless you are positive it is apples-apples and then even regional pricing are different (don't ask me how that's fair). Tarek: The quote above for ~$2400 is around what I was getting quoted this year to replace the coil in my 2.5t gas/electric packaged unit located on the roof. Replacement units ran anywhere from mid $3k to $10k for approximately the same level systems (Ranging from 3-3.5ton, 13-15seer, and 45-70k btuh on heating input). The Home Warranty can sometimes screw over the homeowner, other times not as bad. Sometimes the contractors are held (read: encouraged) to keep costs very low to keep business coming their way. So they are paid pennies for the covered part of the installation and they must recoup the cost somewhere. So it comes out in higher non-covered charges for installation.

Twee I would get a second opinion. Leaks at a valve are usually easy and relatively inexpensive to repair. Evap coil leaks In an air handler can be another matter entirely. Standard procedure when adding refrigerant is to include dye especially when tech did not attempt to find the leak. Let the system then run for several days and return to check coil to locate leak with proper tools. Was dye inserted? Do you even know? Yes, evap coils can be replaced in an air handler. However, usually this s not cost effective due to the expense. I assume air handler is out of warranty. IMO

For lazy technicians maybe, but to say replace the coil, when the leak is on a fitting, is sloppy work. Most coils can be repaired. If multiple leaks or advisories to replace are known, the reasons may offer a solution to replace the coil. If under warrantee, then replace. If replacing the coil, try to match the coil to get the best SEER available. Most technicians will not want to do this, because they dont know how to do the SEER comparison.

I would shut down the furnace for a few hours and see if water is draining to the floor drain and also check the drain line, it may be clogged. The other item without cutting up your ductwork, restart your furnace at a set temperature of 76 deg F or 24 deg C. People think that all units must operate at 72 deg or 22 deg. C, which is wrong, when I do the load calculation the design temp is 76 deg. F. I use to live in a 2 story house and to push the cooling to the second floor I closed my vents on the main floor, bathrooms and cooking area except for the living room and dining room and have the furnace run continuously. Placed a fan over the bedroom vents and had a fan operate in the kitchen on the main floor. Cool air is heavy and will drop to the main and have fans running on the second and main level. You want to operate a dehumidifier in the basement to remove access humidity. Humidity is always an issue in the summer as well as the cost of energy for operating the cooling cycle compared to heating.