Yes, it's my understanding that most if not all panels are only treated on one side (I'm told there's no reason to add the expensive coating to the inside) and they're marked so folks can be sure to install the UV coated side out. However, the HF poly panels have no marking on either side. When folks call to ask which side needs to face out, the traditional answer from HF seems to be "it doesn't matter." Last May I emailed HF with pointed questions about the existence of a UV coating on their panels, and their vague answer seemed to admit neither side is coated. These threads may help: HFGH Polycarb Panels Failing! HFGH Polycarbonate Panels Failing (Part 2) I do note, the level of problem seems to be greatly affected by location and climate. I know of at least one other GW member with a HFGH in Missouri who does not note deterioration problems after several years; also, those who use shadecloth on the exterior surfaces seem to fare better. It's just something to consider as you weigh out the pros and cons (and it helps explain why the HFGH kits cost so much less than all the others.) In the above threads I mention a clear coating from Top Secret Products I was going to try, but due to a badly timed illness and house renovation I didn't apply it to my panels, so I muffed my chance to see if it would help. My own HF panels are now noticeably yellowed and more brittle after a few years in the NM sun, so my greenhouse is no longer a good test subject. So far I haven't seen anyone post here with other solutions about coatings to apply. I sure understand about imaginary budgets! The low price of the HFGH kit (and all the good info here in this forum) gave me the courage to take the plunge into our first greenhouse. If you didn't have to change the roof pitch I'd be more optimistic it would be worth the work, and maybe worth the risk of shorter panel life. I ran this question by my husband also, and he also says he doesn't think you could use the top wall rail as included in the kit, since the angle would be wrong for your greenhouse roof pitch.

Don't laugh, but it worked.... When we installed extra heavy bubble wrap in my GH, the vertical walls were no problem, as I bought it in a 2 ft. width, so it snugged in between the aluminum polybars nicely. Then we used heavy tape to seal it. The problem was keeping it from sagging down from the curved eaves and ceiling and for that, I used spring loaded curtain rods set about every 2 ft. The rubber tips on the rods fit tightly against the frame, yet don't rub the paint and hold the bubble in place. I also agree that once in place, it should remain. With an aluminet shadecloth and lots of ventillation, My GH held reasonably cool last summer, but the bubble only went up in the fall and now, with the bubble in place it never gets much above the 74 deg. I have the intake vent/exhaust fan combo set at. When it hit 92 a few weeks ago, the upper air in the GH got up to 80, but from about 5 ft. (my eye level) down, still topped out at 76. BTW: One of the handiest tools to spot check temps is a gadget I received as a gift for my fish tanks. It's an instant digital thermometer. All I have to do is slide a button on it to push the probe up to turn it on and it reads accurately in a few seconds, so I can spot check water OR air temps in any part of the GH, doing a pretty full sweep in minutes. It works as well in soil too. As Granny would have put it: "Goodness! What will they think of next?" LOL!

I don't do anything to protect trees from frost, with one exception, that being very small plants that have not yet had a good strong growing season to get established. I am protecting one tree at the moment, a friend's 18" tall Eucommia ulmoides that was just about to break bud when the last few cold blasts (one down to 14 F and the other to 17 F) came through. It was planted last spring and only put on about four inches of growth. The species is hardy here but its foliage has shown some sensitivity to late spring and early fall freezes. With this new little one, I didn't want to chance it not having the energy reserves to grow a replacement set of leaves. What I am using is two 3 gal. plastic containers, the bottom cut out of one, and both lined with bubble wrap. Nested upside-down, they form a sort of teepee over the plant. So far this arrangement seems to have worked pretty well. There is a slight blackening on the edges of the tree's bud scales, but the buds overall remain plump and green. BTW Toronado, how did the Gum Bumelia tree do for you last season--the one Missouri Wildflowers sent you by mistake in place of the Nyssa you wanted?

The wall there is partly garage which is unheated and (probably) uninsulated and partly (where the windows are) a chunk of garage that was carved out during construction to serve as a potting room with an open doorway. It's a little weird. Anyway, it's not quite the same as your friend is proposing. It has ceiling vents (which are stuck in the open position) for ventilation and looks like it was a pretty nice kit when installed, although it's just single-paned glass. I'm not sure I would have chosen to install it like that, though. It's slightly higher than the roof and presented a challenge for the roofer. Once we try growing things in there and using water in it we'll have a better idea of the humidity. I'm hoping it'll be more like a sunroom or enclosed porch than a swampy hothouse. I'm looking forward to cleaning it up after the earthquake. No wimpy acrylic ceiling glass here! :P (Don't let your friend put glass over his head--you guys are due too!)