Does it have to be wood? Metal pipe is cheaper down here than any wood bigger than a 2x4 so we use it. Not the thinwall stuff like they use in chain-link fences but the thick walled drill pipe. Lasts longer too. If you have to go with CCA I'd allow for a good size perimeter. Found this at Ecology Center Leaching of arsenic from PT CCA wood in raised garden beds has been found to be limited to about 6", but that 6" is permanently contaminated. It means that you should not grow vegetables in that strip nor can you turn that soil into the rest of your garden. You'd want a clear work/walk path between the fence and the outside of the garden anyway, right (wheelbarrow, tiller, hoe handle length, etc.) so if the above is valid then 5 feet or so should be enough. Dave

When I did mine, I primed all of the timber including all the ends where I'd cut, then gave it all an oil based undercoat and then two finish coats of oil based paint as well. I have since been told that once the primer and undercoat are on you can finish with a couple of coats of good quality acrylic paint. If you like to send me your email address I can send you some notes on other options to overcome your problem without painting. Incidently I now have a new email address to the one shown in my profile and it is splinter1804@hotmail.com I don't know if "Vriesea" is reading this or not but he could advise you as he has been a professional painter all his working life and has plenty of experience with shade houses and brom's as well. All the best, Nev.

Mononhemeter hello. I went with 1x12x12’ Hardie cedarmill. What I wanted to avoid was cutting 45’s on my table saw with a Hardie blade because the motors on table saws are not dust resistant. My guys felt like they could cut 45’s with their circular saws but I didn’t feel good about cutting them that way. I decided to just use butt joints by smoothing the edges. For metal posts depending on the application, and how much you want to spend. I would sand bast the posts and then paint them with Sherwin Williams DTM paint or sand and paint to stop the rust. It will still rust on the inside so when you wrap them put a top on the to keep moisture out. I would use glue to adhere my wrap. I hope this helps.

give us a big city name .. frankly.. this is what roses look like in august..unless you start spraying in may.. and dont stop for the whole growing season ... fert is not a response to this problem in any manner ... but roses need fert for other reasons.. and at the proper times.. depending on where you are ... where are you ... i wonder how long that fence has been there ... and if that isnt part of the cause of the issue.. dead air ... its too bad it appears to be planted as close as it is to the fence ... in fall.. cut it back significantly .. spray down whats left with the appropriate spray ... clean up all fallen debris.. and in spring... start a regular spraying protocol for the rest of the year ... its the price you will pay for a pretty plant all season long.. and if you are going to do all that.. lol.. may as well mail order 50 more plants ... lol ... invest or divest as they say .... but at this point.. there is no making this one look better ... but it wont die from this ... so dont worry about that ... disease RESISTANCE is not disease proof... and even with resistant stock.. you would probably still have to spray ... its one of the reasons i ended up quitting roses.. in my MI ... i didnt want to be spraying every 4 to 6 weeks with kids around ... for both disease and bugs... etc ... ken