I would tend to agree with you about the 54 degrees thing. Anything below 70 will cause pepper seedlings to have stunted growth & they will never be the same again. I tried putting mine out in a cold frame when temps were getting high enough last year. A little bit of cold destroyed every single one of them. Could also be a fungus though. Pinch off the bad leaves, get them warmer & give them a few days to see what happens. - Steve

I bought a new house last year I have a Fig tree in my back yard last year it was a lot of leaves and Figs today its already June 16 I don't see a singleLeave on my tree does this mean that is dying I live in New York City

Thanks guys! Replying to both comments: 1) Yes they look better on camera than in real life. I did not test soil, it's a part of routine fertilizing I do every year, didn't have problems before, applied according instruction 1 cup per 10x10 ft. There were high winds along with storms, very high winds I'd say, like 50+ mph. 2) I use castile soap diluted in water 5 tbsp per 1 gal. Thanks!

The only thing you might have done differently, Rick, was to plant quite a few more or stuffed them in between other plants...because C.bells are notorious for throwing more flower spikes than they can reasonably expect to support. Once the blooms appear, the weight of the stem will become even more overloaded. In my view, these are not gardenworthy plants and should really only be grown in rows for cutting. However, you are, rightly, wanting to preserve the ones you already have so it is not too late to use either peasticks, woody prunings or thin canes around the plant, with string or twine wound between the existing stems. The main requirement now is for support, above all else. Growgirl, the main bloom cycle is pretty much the only one. Cutting back may encourage a few sideshoots to form (as with foxgloves) but really, they are best yanked out after blooming so you can use the space to plant next years biennials (which should have been sown anytime in May). The foliage is not worth saving either, as it will look increasingly tatty whether cut back or not. Biennials have a place between the spring bulbs and the first summer perennials - I grow dianthus, verbascum, wallflowers, foxgloves and lunaria for this very purpose (and when I can be bothered, I also grow the chimney bellflower, campanula pyramidalis as a companion for the tall lilies)...but nearly always, they are brilliant for cutting or relatively short-lived but massively enthusiastic bloom power...which is why they tend to be biennial rather than short-lived perennials - because they bloom themselves to death. A single lunaria, 'Corfu Blue', produced a 4foot by 4foot shrub-like cloud of deep blue flowers for a month in May/June which was stunning, if ephemeral. Great in a wilder garden too.