A good rule of thumb is to never plant a seed deeper than it's own thickness. Some seeds require light to germinate (no covering), other require darkness. I'd suggest making a list of the seeds you have and Google "germination requirements" to find a good on-line database, then look up each of your seeds.

From NC State University: "Bloodroot propagation is typically done through seed or root division. Bloodroot is easily propagated by dividing the rhizomes in spring or in fall. Plants can be started indoors from seed or seed can be directly sown into the ground, but the rhizome divisions allow for a faster harvestable root." Bloodroot seeds mature in mid to late spring. Oblong seedpods contain the developing seeds, and when mature, the pods open and seeds pop out. Plant the fresh seeds one to two inches apart, approximately ¼ inch deep. Never allow fresh seed to dry out. Cover with a two-inch layer of leaf mulch and keep moist. Some germination should occur the following year, but many seeds may not emerge until the second spring. Once the plants have developed small rhizomes (usually after two years), they can be transplanted into regular planting beds. Plants should be ready to harvest six years after planting from seeds."

Are you talking to me or the OP? I don't own an ice pick and don't think it would be thick enough and very tedious to heat up plus if it's too small diameter, many more holes. Might be fine for vents though. Smaller holes, less fumes maybe. I like my woodburning tool, has just the right tip. Anyway, I found out yesterday some containers had iced on the bottom, moved them. So I will need to start burning a few holes low in the sides so they can drain if prolonged. Hadn't thought of that, been thawing in the daytime and freezing up again at night. Once all the snow is melted off and sidewalk clear, shouldn't be a problem unless it snows or ices again. Drain better on the sidewalk but have some still in snow. So thanks to whomever put me onto that. Whatever works for individual people is the way to go.

It depends upon how much time you have to care for seedlings before they are tranplanted into permanent spots in the garden. If you are growing garden annuals that you want blooming as soon as they go into the ground they need to be started indoors several weeks ahead of your planting date. Seed packets will offer germination information to guide you...keep in mind that the information on the back of the packet is based upon ideal circumstances. Most garden perennials do not bloom their first year from seed so they can be started anytime. Starting indoors will require care to prevent damp-off and repotting if felt necessary. Outdoor germination you will need to protect the soil from desiccation by wind and sun, the seedlings should also be protected from slugs or snails, if a hail storm is coming you can help protect young direct-sown seedlings by turning an old laundry basket over them for the duration of the storm. Direct-sown seedlings are often a tasty treat for birds and bunnies. A scarecrow and fencing can help protect the seedlings from critter damage, however a starving animal will ignore devices used to deter or scare them away. Vegetable packets offer a "days to maturity" guideline to suggest when to sow your seeds. Those days are generally based upon how long it takes to grow the first ripe produce after a seedling is about four inches high, those dates are not indicative of how many days needed to produce ripe fruit after germination. Germination requirements can vary from species to species, though some plant families may have similar requirements. If you have no seed packet to read for germination requirements then you can look up the information on the internet by typing in the plant name + germination. The information may also be found in books at the library. Winter Sowing, done outdoors, goes on all throughout winter. See the Winter Sowing Forum FAQs for information. There is also forum with FAQs for Starting Seeds Under Lights.