Same here, but I do not see any pests at all. They have been indoors since last year and my eyesight is superb at spotting insects. I used to spot insects hidden to others when I was a kid (entymology was one of my other hobbies) including aphids and even hatchling praying mantises (green on green, talk about camoflage) on 20 foot tall trees from ground level. In any case, I did give them a good looking over near the crown and ground level, no insects seem evident at all, except captured in the dew or in the leaves. If a female got in and started reproducing on the sundew and Flytrap, I can't find them. I might just repot them and see what happens. Maybe something got in their soil.

I have seen leaves of plants do this when under "stress" (too much/too little water, sudden cold or heat, etc). They eventually grow out of it when the conditions stabilize. Otherwise, if the soil was not good, it could be some type of disease, although a common one like botrytis often manifests as lower leaves yellowing and browning out and continuing up the stem.

Calliope, that is true,however I would expect to see more wilting, stunting, or dieback if that was the case. While there are diseases that may manifest itself that way (Black root rot is one), think of balled-and-burlapped trees surviving a loss of more than 85% of their root systems. As for cedar-quince rust, good luck. It can be absolute hell trying to keep it off hawthorns, serviceberries, pears in a bad year, fruiting and flowering quince (Cydonia and Chaenomeles), and apples. Sanitation is a huge part of the control. The spores are everywhere, so check your clothes, hair, etc. as well as cleaning tools properly. This fall/winter prune out all galls that may have formed and pick off all infected fruit (they will be dark and shrunken (a few may be swollen) at that time of year). In the spring, when buds start expanding, start treating with Daconil or Mancozeb to protect the new growth and retreat every two weeks, every week if rainy. Every third or fourth spray, use a systemic such as Infuse or Immunox. Repeat the process over. Any leaves that develop spots should be removed and galls pruned out. I would pick out infected fruit. Just a thought on this though, but it may help to wet down the leaves/fruit before messing with the plant as that seems to control the spread of the spores ( I wouldn't worry about infection as the plant will have been sprayed). When dry and if disturbed, the "horns" will release the lightweight spores and they will drift easily. I had heard about removing cedar trees within a certain distance from the infected plant, however that doesn't work with CQR since it can occur on a host plant year after year. Let me know what your Extension service recommends.

This happened to one of mine earlier this year; it was a result of my application of fungicide at the wrong time of day. I was in the process of applying Bayer Advanced Disease control one morning & got stopped halfway through my chore. When I went back outside, it was 10 am & the last rose I sprayed had too much direct sunlight. The foliage & buds that faced south, where there was the greatest sun exposure, shriveled & looked a little hinky. The other roses & the backside (shaded side) of that last rose looked perfectly fine. Learned my lesson! ---Laura